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Book ■// 6 



PRESENTED BY 



The Little Girl's 
Sewing BooK 




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LITTLe GIRL'S 
SeWING BGDK 



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Gin 

JAN ^0 (9;6 




A Word to the Grown=ups. 

This book contains lessons in practically all the 
stitches used in plain needlework, as well as the more 
useful of the fancy stitches. Each article described and 
illustrated will be found to contain instructions for some 
definite branch of sewing ; and though all the stitches 
required in making the article will not necessarily be 
illustrated in that chapter, they will appear in other 
chapters, and can easily be referred to, by aid of the 
comprehensive index. 




4 \ 



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"-rA-' 



Things you can 
maKe for Yourself. 



A Handy WorK Apron. 

If you are going to set to work to make some of the pretty articles 
described in this little book, the little work apron shown in the picture 
on this page is just the very thing you will need to put on while you 
are sewing. 

It has two deep pockets and two small ones, and you will be able 
to put the silks and cottons necessary, for whatever it is you are 
making, into these, so that they will be ready as you want to use them. 

You will find it is so handy, 
too, to have a pocket to slip 
your scissors into after cutting 
your thread. You know what a 
nasty way they have of slipping 
off your lap on to the floor. And 
then, when you pick them up, it 
is quite likely that you get a 
little dust on your hands, and 
this gets on to your pretty work 
and makes It look soiled. 

Then, when your sewing 
time is ended for the day, how 
convenient it is to be able to 
fold your work away in vour 
little work apron, so that It Is 
kept well protected from any stray specks of dust, and will be quite 
ready for you when next you want it. 

So you see how this little apron is going to help you to keep vour 
work nice and clean, and I am sure you will want to make yourself one 
as quickly as ever you can, so let us see how it is done. 

You will only need i yard of material to make the apron, and this 
can be white or coloured as you prefer. A soft linen or sateen would 
make up well. For the featherstitching use coloured " Star Sylko " 
thread, as this will wash without the colour runninof. 

To cut out the apron, first measure off 4 inches of the material, 
and cut across from selvedge to selvedge; this will form the band. 




THIS HAS FOUK P0CKET3. 



A Handy 
Work Apron. 

The piece used for the apron itself is 32 inches long and 20 inches 

wide, and when you have cut this you will have a strip left for making 

the small pockets, which 

should each be 6 inches 

square. To make the 

points at the bottom of 

the pockets, fold each 

square right down the 

centre, measure if 

inches up the double 

cut edges, and cut off 

the corners on the cross 

to the edge of the 

centre fold. 

Now take the piece 
you have cut for the 
apron, and turn a 
quarter-inch hem along 
both the sides and one 
of the ends of this strip, 
tack these along care- 
fully, and hem neatly. 
We give directions for 
tacking and hemming 
on page 18. 

To form the large 
double pocket, fold the 
hemmed end of the 
strip up II inches, and 
oversew the edges of 
the side hems together. 
Directions for oversew- 
ing are given on page 
28. Now place a tack- 
ing line rigfht down the oathebino, stboking, and 

^ ° PUXTINa INTO A BAND. 





^t^^ 



Pockets and 
Band. 

centre of the pocket 
The small patch pockets 
should then be added. 
Turn a quarter-inch 
hem along the top of 
each of these, and h 
single narrow turning 
round the other edges. 
Hem one of these on to 
each side of the large 
pocket, placing them 
about 3I inches down 
from the top of the 
large pocket, and 3 
inches in from the side 
edges of the apron. 

HOW THE PEATHER-STITCHING IS DONE. -. t i i l j 

Now take the band 
strip, tack a single turning round all edges and fold right along the 
centre. Gather the top of the apron, draw the gathers up tightly 
(winding the thread round a pin so that it will be ready when you want 
to let them out again), and carefully stroke down each gathered stitch 
with your needle to make them set nicely. Now let out the gathers 
until the apron is 13 inches wide, place the gathered edge between the 
folded band, taking care that you get the centre of the band and the 
centre of the apron together, and hem along each side of the work. 
You will see that you have a little picture showing you exactly how 
this should be done. 

The open edges of the ends of the band should be oversewn 
together. 

When you have finished sewing on your band you will need to 
put a button on one end and to make a buttonhole in the other end. 
If you are not .quite sure how to make a buttonhole nicely you had better 
look carefully at the illustrations showing how to do this. 

First fold the end of the band, and cut your buttonhole through 




THE BABRING" OVKUCASTING 

AND THE FINISHED 

BUTTONHOLE. 



A Handy 
Work Apron. 

tlie fold and exactly in a line with a thread of 
the material ; the buttonhole should be cut 
just large enough for you to put your button 
through easily. Before you commence to 
work the buttonholes make a line of running 
or " barring " stitches quite close to the edges, tc 
hold them evenly together, as shown in the 
first part of the little diagram ; the second 
part of the diagram shows another way of holding the edges together 
by working overcasting stitches over the hole, but this way is more 
often used when working on thicker materials. The third part of 
the diagram shows a finished buttonhole, and you will see that one 
end is worked round and the other square; the outside should be the 
round one, and the inner end the square one. 

Now you are ready to commence to work the buttonhole. Thread 
a sewing needle with white cotton (say No. 40), make a knot, and 
just to fasten your thread to your work put your needle in on the 
wrong side just below the running, stitches, at the inner end of the 
buttonhole, picking up one thickness of material only, and bring it 
out on the right side of your work between the edges of the 
buttonhole. 

Buttonholes are always worked on the i 

right side of the work, and are worked 
from left to right. To make the first 
stitch (after fastening your cotton on as 
above), place the needle downwards 
through the buttonhole, and put it in just 
where you put it at first, only this time 
right through both thicknesses of material. 
When you have your needle in this 
position, place your cotton round it 
exactly as the little illustration shows it 
placed, pull your needle out, and you will 




™w^ 



MAKING A BUTTONHOLB. 



Making a 
Buttonhole. 

find that you have made a knotted stitch, which must be pulled up so 
that the knot comes right at the edge of the buttonhole ; this completes 
one stitch, and you must work a row of these stitches right along, 
making the ends of the stitches even to a thread. 

The round end is made in the same way that you do oversewing, 
and each stitch must be made the same length as the buttonhole 
stitches, and taken round to form a half-circle at the end of the hole; 
the lower part of the little illustration shows how the needle is placed 
for this. 

Work the second side in the same way as the first, then for the 
s<|uare end take a couple of ordinary back stitches right over the entire 
width of the worked buttonhole (from the lower edge of the stitches 
on one side to the lower edge of the stitches on the other), and work 
a row of buttonhole stitches across the end of the buttonhole, bringing 
the knots just over the bar of stitches you have just made across. This 
completes your buttonhole. 

All that now remains to be done is the feather-stitching, and for 
the little girl who has not attempted this stitch before, we are giving 
an illustration showing exactly how it should be made. 

This is worked from right to left. If you look carefully at the 
illustration you will see that the thread is always brought round to the 
front of the needle before making a stitch, and for the upper part a 
small stitch is taken downwards towards you, and for the lower part 
a stitch of the same length is taken turning upwards towards you. 
The feather-stitching should be worked just over the hemming line, 
and this will serve as a guide for keeping it straight; the bottom of 
the top stitch should come just above the hemming line, and the top 
of the lower stitch just below it. The illustration clearly shows where 
the feather-stitching should be added. 

You run and hem from right to left, 

You buttonhole from left to right ; 
Your needle should be rather fine, 

And never pull the thread too tight. 



For Ribbons and Bows. 



Isn't it just too tiresome when you want a particular bow to wear 
with a blouse, or a little lace collar that is just the right shape, and 
you look in vain through the drawer where you keep knick-knacks 
of this description. Then you know how the drawer gets all tumbled 
over, and you have finally to seize a bow that isn't a bit the one you 
wanted, and rush off, to save being late for school. Have you ever 
been in a fix like that? If you have, you know all about it, and it is 
all the more 
annoying 
when you 
know all the 
time that the 
bow is there 
somewhere. 

Now what 
is really th( 
trouble here? 
Why the 
fact of the 
matter is the 
drawer is too 
big, and the 
little bow loses itself among the other things in the drawer. 

Now what you want is a little compartment where you can keep 
your bows or collars (as the case may be) all to themselves. A card- 
board box inside the drawer won't last any time. No; the better plan 
is to make yourself a really pretty box, that can stand on your dressing- 
table. You see the sweet one illustrated, don't you? Well, it 
will be a very simple matter for you to make one In the same way. 
The outside of this one is covered with a pretty flowered cretonne, of 
which pink and green are the principal colours, and it is lined with 
biscuit-coloured sateen. But you would, of course, make your box in 
the colours that will go best with your little bedroom. A flowered 
material is probably nicest for the outside, though plain material could 




This is how the Box looks when it is closed. 



8 



Covering the 
Cardboard. 

be used. In any case, a deep cream is the best colour for the inside 
of the box. 

To make a box the same size as the one here shown, you will want 
four pieces of thin cardboard 6 inches long^ by 5^ inches wide for the 
lid and bottom, four pieces 6 inches by 3 inches for the sides, and four 
pieces 5^ inches by 3 inches for the ends. Then you will want two 
pieces of cream sateen 7 inches by 6| inches, and two pieces of flowered 
cretonne the same size, two pieces of cream sateen and two pieces of 
cretonne 7 inches by 4 inches, and two pieces each of sateen and 
cretonne 6| inches by 4 inches. 

The first step is to cover the cardboard pieces. This must be done 
very neatly. You will notice that the pieces of material are an inch 
larger each way than the cardboard they are to cover. When you 
lay a piece of cardboard on a piece of material there should be |-inch 
of material all round, outside the cardboard, for turning over. Crease 
it over the edges of the cardboard all round, turning it in under again 
at the corners, as you see in the little picture. Start by taking a few 
stitches at the first corner, carry your needle on to the next corner,, 
and again take a few firm stitches. When you have done all the 
corners, take a few long stitches from side to side, as you see in the 
illustration, to keep it secure. 

You must now sew the covered pieces together. Take a cretonne- 
covered piece, place it against a 
sateen-covered piece of the same size, 
having the turned-in sides together,. 
f^ I^^HHI^^B n ^"^ oversew neatly all round. Do this 

f i^^^^H lU ^'^^^ ^^^ ^^^ pieces. Now you have 

six neat little sections, each of which 
is cream one side and coloured on the 
other. 

Your next task is to oversew five 
of these sections together to make a 
box. First sew the two side and two- 
end pieces together, and then sew the 
bottom piece to all four, taking care 
9 



r 




COVERINO A. SECTION OF 
CARDBOARD WITH MATERIAL. 



Tor Ribbons 
and Bows. 

that all the cream sides are inside and the coloured sides outside. 

Before you sew the lid on, sew cord round all the edges with neat 
stitches, as you see in the picture. Green cord was used for this box, 
but you could use whatever colour g-oes best with your cretonne. Sew 
cord also round the edge of the lid. 

All that now remains to be done is to fasten the lid to the box. 
This is done by oversewing on the inside the cord on one side of the 
box to that on the lid. You have now got not only a useful receptacle 
for your bows, etc., but a very pretty addition to your dressing-table. 
The size given is a very useful one, but you are not bound to make 
it this size if any other would suit your purpose better. For instance, 
if it is to hold handkerchiefs, a box that is square would be a better 
shape. But whatever size you decide on, see that each piece is cut and 
joined evenly, as this is most essential if the box is to be really a 
success. 



Such an Advantage ! 

My scissors used to run away ; 

My cotton lost itself ; 
My needlebook would never stay 

Upon the mantel-shelf ; 
My thimble always would forget 

To be where I could find it ; 
My button-box was quite upset 

If no one stayed to mind it. 

But now a work-bag I have made, 
I'm saved no end of worry ; 

I find my cotton, tape and braid. 
Without the slightest flurry. 



10 



The LambKin Bag. 

This pretty bag is made just big enough to take a pair of little girl's 
shoes, and would be just the very thing for you to keep at school to put 
your slippers in when you change them to come home ; or you might 
like to use it to carry your slippers in when you go out to tea. 

Do you see the two frisky lambs gambolling on the grass, worked 
across the bottom of the bag? Don't you wish that you were like 
them, and didn't have to wear shoes that are always wearing out ? 
This little bag was made of dark red sateen, and embroidered with 
white " Star Sylko " embroidery thread. The bag should be about 
7^ inches wide and 10 inches deep, when finished, and to allow for 
•seams and a nice wide hem at the top, you will want to cut a strip of 
material 8 inches wide and 24 inches long. 

It will be best to do your embroidery before you make up the bag, 
rso that you can get at the work better. First fold your strip of 
material right across the centre, 
put a tacking line on this fold, and 
Avork your lambs just above this. 

If you turn to page 30 you will 
see how to work the cross-stitch 
designs, by placing canvas over your 
material first, and you have the 
lambs all drawn out for you in this 
article. Also you will find a whole 
alphabet of initials for working in 
cross-stitch on another page. 

When you have finished the 
embroidery, fold the strip of material 
in half, with the right side inside, 
and sew it together at each side 
with a run and. back stitch, leaving 
about 4 inches open at each side at 
the top of the back. When you 

Doegn't this make a pretty 
Shoe-bag I 




The Lambkin 
Bag. 

have joined the 
seams, you must 
oversew them 
along the edges 
on the wrong 
side as well, so 
that they will 
not fray. 

Now turn 
d o w n a 2-inch 
hem at the top, 
on both sides of 
the bag, turning 





From the outline designs on this page, you 
will be able to count the crosses. 

12 



in the side edges of 
the hems ; you can tack 
down the sides of the 
hems, «o as to keep the 
edges in, but don't sew 
them together just yet. 

When you have 
hemmed the hems, you 
must put a row of 
running stitches along 
each hem, about half- 
an-inch above your 
hemming line, to make 
a runner, so that when 
you thread your rib- 
bons through they will' 
be held down at the 
bottom of the hem and 
not come right up to 



Putting in 
the Ribbon. 



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the top of the bag. Now 
you can oversew the ends 
of the hems together, 
leaving the little space 
between the running line 
and the hemming line 

that you can 

our 

This 

must 



material, as you do not 

If you like you can 
embroider an even row 
of white crosses over 
the stitches on the right 
side of the bag ; this 
makes a pretty finish. 

You can either use 
red cord or a narrow red 
ribbon for threading 
through your bag, and 
you will want a yard and 
a half. Cut this into two 
even lengths. 

Then thread a bodkin 
with one piece, and start- 
ing from the left hand side 
of the bag, thread it right 
round the bag through 
the runnel you made at 



want the 



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the work 

with fine sewing cotton 
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ribbon 

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Here you see what the lambs look like worked 
on Penelope Canvas. Aren't they frisky 1 

13 



When Dolly had 
an Accident ! 

the bottom of the hems. When you have got it right through, sew 
the two ends of the ribbon together, and pull it round from the right 
side so that the join does not show; this will leave you with a long loop 
of ribbon hanging from the right side of the bag. Now take the other 
piece of ribbon and do exactly the same from the left side of the bag. 

Now when you pull the loops at each side the bag will draw up nice 
and evenly at the top. 



The 

I'm 'fraid I can't go out to-day. 
My baby's cough is worse ; 

And if she isn't better soon 
I'll have to have a nurse, — 

Like mother did when I had fever ; — ■ 
It really isn't safe to leave her ! 

This morning when I had my bath, 

She tumbled head-first in, 
And got herself just soaking wet 
• Right to her very skin. 

She had her shoes and stockings on. 

Also her cream serge frock ; 

And when we found her, nearly 
drowned, 

She'd fainted with the shock ! 

I've made her lots of medicine, 
With chocolate cream and water ; 

But she's so tiresome, she wont try 
To take it as I taught her. 

I've put her in the nice new bed 
I've been so busy making. 

With mattresses and underlay, 
And feather beds for shaking. 



Invalid. 

And hem-stitched sheets all trimmed 
with lace, 

And blankets edged with blue. 

And frills around the pillow case, 

A pink silk bedspread too! 

I've put her newest nightie on. 
And made her shut her eyes; 

(She does that when she lies down 
flat 
And goes to sleepy-byes). 

But when I got her medicine 
And said, " Now dear, sit up, 

And take a teeny little drop 
Out of your favourite cup." 

She was a really naughty child, 
And simply said, she wouldn't ! 

But there— poor thing, she's just a 
doll, 
So I suppose she couldn't ! 

And now I'll have to say good-bye. 
You'll 'scuse me writing more. 

I think I hear the doctor. 
Rat-tat-tatting at the door. 



14 



The Swallow Nightdress 
PocKet. 

Isn't it just lovely to be able to make things all by yourself, without 
having to wait to be shown what to do next all the time. Mother is 
sure to be busy just when you want to know how to go on, and not have 
the time to stop to arrange your work for you. This pretty nightdress 
pocket can be made out of a long straight strip of material, folded up 
like an envelope. That sounds quite easy, doesn't it, and I am sure you 
have often folded 

up ^^^^HiHIIIHHHHHB^HBHI^^BH|i^^l 

envelope, haven't 



Y o u just 




^ ^ ^ 



[ ht^ h±^m^^ '^;^'i 4 \m^ 



THE BIRDS ARE FLYING HOME TO BED. 



you 

divide it into three, 
and let one end lie 
over the other like 
a flap. 

You will want 
about half a yard 
of white canvas, or 
linen, to make the 
pocket, and about 
1^ yards of Cash's 
Fancy Frilling, to 

put round the edge of the flap. Also you will need a ball of blue 
•' Brighteye." 

Now, take a tape measure and measure your material each way. 
You want to have a strip 30 inches long and 15 inches wide. When you 
have cut this, measure up 18 inches of the length, and cut 1^ inches off 
the width of the strip at each side up as far as this, leaving the remain- 
ing 12 inches wider, to allow of the deep hem round the flap. 

Now turn a 1^ inch hem across the narrow end of your strip of 
material, hem it along on what will be the inside of the pocket, and 
fold this end of the strip up to form the pocket, until the lower edge 

15 



A Swallow 
Hightdres^ Pocket, 




of the hem reaches where 
the material comes out wider 
at each side. 

Sew up the side seams 
with a run and back-stitch, 
then oversew the edges of 



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ONE SWALLOW "WOHKED 
ON PENELOPE CANVAS. 



AN OUTLINE SWALLOW FOR 
COUNTING THE CROSSES. 



you do not have any frayed 
edges inside your pocket. 
The ends of the hem are not joined into the seams at each side, but 
these are turned in and oversewn to make them neat. This loose hem 
at the top of the pocket makes it easiet for the nightdress to be slipped 
in and out. 

Now you turn in an even hem all round the flap and hemstitch it. 
Directions for hemstitching are given on page 30. You will also find 
•out how to work cross-stitch designs over canvas on page 26, and you 
can work your birds in the same way from the diagram given. 

You will see that your nightdress pocket would be quite complete 
without the frill, but this makes a very pretty finish to it. Cash's 
Frillings are supplied with a thread that draws up already in, so that 
you will have no need to gather your frilling but just to draw it up. If 
you measure round the flap, and then draw your length of frilling up to 
this size and distribute the fulness evenly all the way along, you can then 
just oversew the drawn-up edge of the frill to the edge of the hem all 
round on the wrong side of the flap. 




An Easy^to^make Pinafore. 

Every little girl would rather make 
something that is pretty and useful than 
something that is useful without being 
pretty. Now here is a very delightful 
pinafore that you can make for yourself, 
that is pretty, useful, and also easy. 

The little girl in the picture looks so 
stylish in her pinafore that you would 
hardly believe you could so easily make 
one like it. But look at the picture on 
page 19 and you can sec better what an 
easy little pattern it is — just a straight 
piece of muslin, hemmed and tucked and 
pleated into a band. This band comes 
---.„„^^»' across the chest, the two ribbons are 

'^^m taken over the shoulders, crossed at the 

^fm back (just like a nurse's apron straps), 

^m H and brought round the waist to tie in a 

^B n "^o^v ^"^ f'ront. The pinafore is made of 

^^55LJb white spotted muslin, trimmed with a 

^^ sweet little insertion and tucks, and the 

ribbon used on it is pink. A pinafore 
like this would brighten up your school 
frock, and I am sure you are wanting to set to work to make one 
at once. 

You will need a yard of spotted muslin 24 inches wide, a yard of 
insertion, and two pieces of 1^-inch pink ribbon each 1^ yards long. Now 
ask mother to tell you what length you require from the yoke to the 
bottom hem, because you want to have your pinafore the right length. 
The little girl. in the picture is eight years old, and she measures 
28 inches from where the pleats are put into the band, to the bottom of 
her pinafore. Then another 3 inches is allowed for , turning up the 

17 B 




A LITTLE GIRL IN HER 
PINAFORE. 




\ 



I 



PUTTING PLEATS 
INTO A BAND. 



A Muslin 
Pinafore. 

hem, making 31 inches altogether. 
Now, having cut off this length, the 
sides have to be hemmed. For this the 
edges must be folded over twice. The 
first fold is onlv enough to turn in 



the raw edge, the second fold should be 
^-inch wide. Now tack it, so as to keep 
the turnings straiglit, by making a long 
stitch on top and a short stitch under- 
neath. 

If you are not sure how to hem, look at the little picture on 
this page. Put the needle in just under the fold, slant it towards you, 
and put it through the fold near the edge. Repeat this stitch, taking up 
only a few threads of material each time. 

Having hemmed the sides, make a deep hem at the bottom, first 
turning down a little fold, and then a deep 2^ inch fold. Tack 
and hem it. 

For the lowest tuck, crease the material 3i inches from the bottom 
of the pinafore, and tack it about ^-inch below the crease, to keep the 

fold in place. Now, we only want 



our little tuck to be j-inch, so just 
at that distance below the crease, 
start running it along with tiny 
stitches as you learned to do for the 
work apron on page 4. To keep 
the tuck the same size all the way, 
you might keep testing it with a 
piece of paper notched in two 
places — the notches to be ^-inch 
apart — the width of your tuck. 
When you have finished the tuck, 
take out the tacking stitches and 

18 




MAKING A TUCK. 




HOW HJBilMlNG IS DONE. 



.*ffl 



Tucks and 
Insertion. 

turn the tuck down so that the stitches come at the top and the tuck 
below them. 

Make a second tuck above the first, the bottom of the second to be 
^-inch above the top of the first. Make a third tuck, the bottom of 
which must be 2| inches above the top of 
the second, and a fourth, having the 
bottom J-inch above the top of the third. 
In this way you have two tucks together, 
then a space, and two more tucks together. 
On to this space between the pairs of 
tucks you sew the insertion. Cut off 
enough to go across the pinafore, allowing 
a little more at each end to turn in. Tack 
it, and then when you are sure that it 
is quite straight, run the insertion along 
both edges on to the muslin, taking an 
occasional back-stitch to keep it quite 
firm. 

The top part of the pinafore is now 
put into a band, which must be as long as 
your width across the chest. You were 
shown how to put material into a band 
on page 5. The little difference here, 
however, is that instead of gathering the 
material, you pleat it. 



THE FINISHED PINAFORE. 

Mark the centre both of the band and the 
material to be pleated into it, with a pin. Turn three little pleats on 
each side of the centre of the material. On the little girl in the picture 
these pleats are each J-inch wide, but you must test carefully and get 
them the size just to fit the band. The picture at the top of page 18 
shows pleats being put into a band 

Now sew on to the band a little length of msertion, as you did at 
the bottom. At each end of the top of the band, however, leave about 



19 



Finishing the 
Pinafore. 

j-inch of insertion not sewn to 
the band. This makes two tiny 
pockets into which 
you can shp the 
pink ribbon after- 
wards, and you 
can then sew the 
ribbon and inser- 
tion through to 
the band. Then, 
as you won't 
want to have the 
pink ribbon 
washed as often 
as you do the 
pinafore, you simply have to 




■^^ 



take out those few stitches each 
time the pinafore goes to be 
washed. Besides, 
you may not 
always want to 
wear pink. With 
some dresses you 
may prefer to 
have pale blue 
ribbon, or helio- 
trope , or even 
red. Whatever 
colour you choose, 
j,.f-^ sew It into the 
pockets, and your 
pinafore is ready for wear. 



The PinK Sun=bonnet. 

A sun-bonnet — what does it make you think of? Doesn't it remind 
you of your last summer holiday — the country, the birds, the flowers? 
Close your eyes and try to imagine it. Can't you almost feel the heat, 
and hear the hum of the insects, and hear, too, the rattle of the pails, 
as you used to hear it when JMaggie, the rosy-cheeked milk maid, wear- 
ing her pretty lilac sun-bonnet, went down to milk Brindle and Beauty 
and Cherry. You thought that sun-bonnet looked so pretty, and kept the 
sun from Maggie's head and neck so beautifully, and you wished you 
had one too. You will wish it again, when you go to the country for 
your next holiday, and I expect you will want one when you are working 
in the sun in your own garden at home. 

Suppose, therefore, you start to make a sun-bonnet for yourself. 
This one, that is shown in the picture, is really very easy to make. It is 
of a pretty pink print, with tiny flowers on it. But perhaps your favourite 
colour is not pink. Probably, you want a lilac one. Whatever colour 

20 



A Sun -bonnet is 
simple to make. 

you decide on, get ^-yard of print that shade, and you are ready to start. 

Cut off 18 inches along the full length of the print, and hem along 
one edge. About 1 inch from the 

hem make a ^-inch tuck, and 1 inch ^*^' ' ■"^'^' * '*' t ^ 
from this, another tuck. Now fold 
your print in half, and join up the 
two edges for the back of the bonnet 
with a French seam, which is des- 
cribed in the chapter on *' Dolly's 
Underwear." \^ 

Your sun-bonnet is now rather 
square in shape. To get it rounded 
at the back, take hold of the point 
and draw it down a little way on to 
the seam at the back. There catch 
it with a few stitches. 

No sun-bonnet is complete 
without a frill, so the next thing 
is to sew this on. Cut off 18 
inches of print 5 inches wide, -^y 
hem along one side and both ' ^^^ sun-bonnet kkady fob weak. 

ends. Gather the other side, and draw it up until it is the length of the 
bottom edge of the bonnet beyond the second tuck. Sew it on the inside 
to the bonnet edge, leaving a little piece of the edge above the gathered 
piece. Turn in the edge, and hem it over the seam. This makes it quite 
neat. The edges along where the frill does not come are also hemmed up. 

For the strings, cut off two lengths of 14 inches, each H inches 
wide. Hem each side and one edge. Turn the opposite edge in, and 
sew it neatly to the inside of the bonnet. 

Your sun-bonnet is now finished, and you will be able to ask nurse 
to put it into the trunk the next time she is packing to take you to stay 
at the farm. Won't Maggie be surprised when you arrive with a 
bonnet like her's, only just a few sizes smaller! 

21 




A Red Satin Housewife. 

What a tiresome way needles have of getting lost, haven't they, 

and even whole packets of needles have a trick of disappearing nobody 

knows where. Every little girl who does any sewing really needs some 

safe place in which to keep her 
needles. This little housewife, 
which is shown both open and 
closed, is just the thing. You 
can stick odd needles in the flan- 
nel, and slip packets of needles 
in the pocket at the end. If you 
always remember to do this, you 
cannot very easily get them mis- 
laid, and the little red housewife 
THE NEEDLE-CASE CLOSED. wlU bc qultc a fHcnd to you. And 

what is more, it is not difficult to make. 

To make one exactly like that in the picture, you want a piece of 

crimson satin, 12| inches long by 3f inches wide, 

a piece of white flannel, 10 inches long by 2^ inches 

wide, some crimson embroidery silk, salmon pink 

embroidery silk, some crimson sewing silk, and a 

oearl button. 

First lay your flannel on the wrong side of the 

satin. If you put it on quite straight, you will find 

there is |-inch of red showing each side of the 

flannel, and IJ inch at each end. At each side 

turn down a hem of satin, so that it comes over 

the edge of the flannel. Tack and hem it. Now 

turn down and hem each end in the same way. 

You will have wider hems here. 

Having hemmed the satin to the flannel all 

round (taking care that the stitches do not go right 

through to the right side of the satin), turn down 




22 



THE DOUBLE 
fEATHEK-STITCHING. 



Housewife 
Open. 



2 inches at one end, to make the Httle 
pocket you see in the picture, sewing it 
neatly at each side with oversewing 
stitches. Oversew also the open ends ol 
the opposite hem. 

Now you know how to feather- 
stitch, don't you, or if you do not, 
you will see on page 5 how it is done. 
Work single feather-stitch with salmon 
pink silk down each side and end of the 
housewife. The inside is now divided 
up into four divisions, by double feather- 
stitch worked in crimson. This is worked 
in the same way as single feather-stitch, 
only that you take first two stitches one 
way and then two the other, instead of 
one each way. A little piece of double 
feather-stitching has been separately 
worked for you to see how it is done. 

At the end opposite the pocket, make 
a loop in red silk of two threads, covered 
with blanket stitch. This is described in 
the chapter on " Dolly's Bed." 

Now, starting at the pocket end, fold 
the needle-case over and over, and just 
opposite where the loop comes, sew a 
little pearl button, and the housewife is 
finished, and quite ready for you to stick 
your needles in. 

You can use silk quite as well as satin 
for your housewife, and if you like any other 
shade better than red, make it of your 
favourite colour. 




23 




%^ 



--XJK." 



Presents you can 
maKe for People. 



24 



A Feeder in Cross=Stitch. 



Here is a pretty little feeder for baby that you will be able to make 
all by yourself. I expect mother will be only too pleased to help you to 
get the materials. You will want about half-a-yard of some soft white 
washing material, a small quantity of Penelope canvas, a ball of 
coloured " Brighteye" embroidery thread, and three-quarters of a yard 
of a narrow silk ribbon. 

Do you see the three happy little dogs running after each other 
across the bottom of the feeder? These are worked in cross-stitch, also 
baby's name in the centre. 

If you haven't yet done any cross-stitch, you had better first look 
at the little illustration on page 26, and see exactly how it is done, 
before commencing to cut out your feeder. 

Just for practice, take a 
small square of canvas, and 
thread a crewel needle with 
the embroidery thread. 
Bring your needle up 
through one of the large 
holes in the canvas, count 
over two canvas threads to 
the right, and two upwards, 
put your needle in this hole, 
and pick up two threads 
towards the left. Pull your 
thread through, and this 
will give you the first part 
of the cross. Now put your 
needle in the hole two 
threads to the right of the 
hole you started from, and 
bring it up through the hole 
two threads to the left of 




MAY 



•flt^ '•^^ 16^^ 

f^7^ jfT^ /fy^ 



BABI WILL LIKE THE THREE HAPPY D0G8. 

25 



Cutting out 
the Feeder. 




MAKING THE CROSSES ON THE CANVAS. 



the first hole, as shown 
in the second part of 
the little illustration. 

This, as you will see, 
completes the first 
cross, and brings the 
thread ready to make a 
second one in the same 
way. 

The lower part of the 
illustration shows the 
dog's tail commenced, 
and how you should 
place your needle when 
you want to make a cross on the slant below. One thing you should be 
very careful about when working in cross-stitch : see that the threads are 
always crossed in the same direction, and not sometimes one way and 
sometimes another. Your work will look so much better if this rule is 
always followed. 

When you feel quite sure you can work the crosses evenly, you can 
cut out the feeder. Perhaps you may like first to cut it out in paper. 
Take your tape measure and measure off a piece of paper 12 inches long 
and 1 1 inches wide. Fold this right down the centre, the longest way. 
Measure two inches down the fold and two inches up the cut edges from 
one end, and cut round from points A to B, as shown in the little 
12 INCHES C diagram. This will give you a curve 

for baby's neck. Now measure 
down an inch on the long outer 
G edges, and cut from point B on the 
slant to this point, which we will 
call C. 

Now that you have a paper 
26 



FOLD 



DIAGRAM FOR CUTTING OUT 
THE FEEDER. 



liitinijpmnnnnnaniii 

Mffiit]|^Biiiiiiiiiupfagiii 
iiMJipH|iiiiii«iiflmyiiii 

iiimi li iimim»iitiRii&' 

m9iisii»m4mimimimimmmmminmmi 

ONE OF THK CROSS-STITCH DOGS. 



Working the 
Happy Dogs. 

pattern, you will be able to place this over your material and cut it 
from this. You will want to have two pieces exactly alike, so that you 
can use one to line the feeder. 

We have now come to the interesting part of working the little 

dogs. Tack a strip of canvas along 
the bottom of the right side of one of 
the pieces you have just cut out ; the 
dogs are nine crosses high, so the strip 
should be wide enough to take the 
design and leave a few extra threads of 
canvas above and below. It is best to 
commence with the centre dog, starting 
the centre cross of the design in the 
centre hole of the canvas, you will 
then be sure of getting it right in the 
middle. When working the other dogs, leave 16 threads of canvas 
between the middle one and each of these. You will then have your 
three little dogs at equal distances apart, and there will be no chance of 
their catching each other up ! Canvas must be placed across the centre 
for the name in the same way. 

From the illustrations of the dog and the letters, you will e^isily be 
able to count the crosses, and see how they are placed. If baby's name 
is not May, and you want to work another name, designs for a whole 
alphabet appear on another page. 

When you have worked all your designs, the canvas threads must 
be pulled away. Cut the canvas down fairly close to the embroidery, 
and pull out the threads one by one. Baby's name is shown with all 
the threads of the ' Y ' pulled out, and the ' A ' as it looks when only the 
cross threads have been pulled away. 

To make up the feeder, place the plain portion of the feeder over 
the embroidered one, with the right sides facing one another, and run 
round all the edges about a quarter of an inch in from the edge, leaving 



27 




Working Cross-stitch 
over Canvas. 

only the curved neck edges open. A running 

stitch, with a back-stitch put in now and then, is 

the best for this, as this will hold it firm. Turn 

the feeder out on the right side, then turn in the 

neck edges and oversew them together. How the 

oversewing stitch is made is shown in the little 

illustration on this page. Hold the edges to .be 

joined together firmly in your left hand, and work 

from right to left, always putting your needle in 

slanting just as the little picture shows, and taking up about a couple of 

threads of the material from each of the edges you are joining together. 

The piece of work in the illustration has been flattened out, in 
order that you may see the stitches more clearly ; but when you are 
oversewing you will hold the two pieces together with the thumb and 
first finger of your left hand, oversewing the top of the two edges. 

Now cut your length of ribbon in half, and sew one piece to each 
end of the neck of the feeder, so that it can be tied round baby's neck 
when she wants to take her food. 



MAKING OVER-SEWING 
STITCHES. 



T%T 



r ^T,.:f^/>-^'T; 



T^. 







This shows how to pull the Canvas away 
after the Cross-Stitch is done 



28 



Cats on a Chair BacK. 

Here is a very pretty thing that you will be able to make for 
Mother. How amused she will be, when she sees these two funny cats 
sparring at each other, and how nice the Chair Back will look hanging 
over the back of father's chair, where he puts his head. 

The Chair Back is hemstitched at each side and across each end, so 
before we commence to make it we will find out how to do this stitch. 

Shall we take a small piece of linen and try and copy the little 
picture we have of the stitch just for practice? When you have tacked 
a hem along, draw out five of the horizontal threads of your linen, just 
beneath the edge of the hem. 

Now for the stitch itself. Hemstitching is always done on the 
wrong side of your piece of work, and the stitch is worked from right to 
left, Thread your needle with linen thread or a fairly coarse crochet 




.V.-'AWMAVi 



AW»Vi%%%?»V<\VAVAVAVA\V*V^?*V;A\V^ 



^?^*^i'}mr 



They don't look very pleased to meet, do they ? 
29 



Hemstitching the 
Chair-back. 

cotton, and fasten the 
end of it to the com- 
mencement of the hem. 

Now look how the 
needle is placed in the 
top part of the picture, 
and put yours in in the 
same way. Place it 
under four of the open 
threads, then pull your 
needle through, which 
draws these four threads 
up closely together. Then 
make a small upright 
stitch up through the 
hem, placing }Our needle 
as shown in the second 
part of your illustration. 
These two stitches arc 
repeated a. 1 1 the way 
along. This is the 
simplest form of hem- 
stitching, and is what is 
used on the sides of the 
Chair Back 

For ladder hem- 
stitching you work along 
the other side of the open threads, just as above, taking the same 
group of threads. When working on coarse linen, or canvas, two or 
three threads need only be picked up each time, all that reall}'^ matters 
is that you keep to the same number all the way along. 

The stitch we have across the ends of our Chair Back is called 

30 




SHOWING HOW HEM-STITCHIXG IS DONE. SERPENTINE 
STITCH IS ILLUSTRATED AT THE BOTTOM. 



•^ffftftttftttn^ 



A FINISHED CORNF.R. 



Making a Neat 
Corner. 

serpentine stitch, and the small 
piece of canvas at the bottom of the 
picture shows how to work this. 
The first side is worked as in the 
simple hemstitching, taking up four 
threads each time, but in workincj 
the second side four threads are 
again taken up, but the needle is 
b.ere put between the threads taken 
up on the opposite side. 

When you want to turn a corner in hemstitching a square cloth, you 
first draw your threads out where the edge of your hem is to come each 
way; then you fold the material on the wrong side diagonally through 
the corner, turn the pointed end in until the point reaches the open 
threads, make a crease, turn the point back and backstitch along the 
crease. You have a little picture showing just where the backstitching 
is done. After this cut off the point beyond the backstitching, turn the 
corner inside out, and you have a neat little seam going diagonally 
from the corner to the edge of your hem (as in illustration). 

You will find that these simple forms of hemstitching will be 
very useful to you in making all kinds of things. 

To make the chair back you will want a strip of white 
Hardanger canvas, a yard long and about 17 inches 
wide ; this will allow for the hems. 

First measure up five inches from each end, 
and draw out four threads of canvas across 
each end, then draw out two threads at each 
side, about three-quarters of an inch in 
from the set of open threads at one 
end to the oth^r ; you will have 
to cut the threads at each end. 
Now tack all the hems 




DOING THE BACK-STITCHING 
ALONG THE CREASE. 



31 



How His Fur 
Bristles ! 

along ; you can turn in the ends of the wide hems and oversew them 
together. 

Hemstitch the side hems in simple hemstitching, taking up three 
threads of canvas each time, and the wide hems in the serpentine stitch, 
taking two threads of canvas each time ; you will remember to take 
the alternate sets on the second side. 

Now you have only to embroider the cats. These are worked in 
cross-stitch, using " Peri-lusta " Pearl Knit, size 5. Shade No 249 is a 
pretty red that would do beautifully. Directions for working cross-stitch 
on canvas are given on page 26, and you will be able to copy the cats 
from the enlarged designs given below. 

If you fold the chair back right down the centre, and start the 

whiskers of the cats 
four threads on each 
side of this line, 
they will be about 
the right distance 
apart. The bristles 
on the legs and tails 
are made by work- 
ing half crosses, and 
those on the back 
by making long 
single strokes, the 
length of tw^o 
crosses. 

The whiskers of 
the cat extend the 
length of three 
crosses. Three 
threads of the 
Hardanger canvas 




■itiiii 

teiitKiiititltliiiiliiltil 

ai(it<i>t)«iii|iit.lilii<>'i!«<'»<'<* 

»'»i*)i>iifiiiii>*)«t«tiii>f*iiii!tii!tiiiill)f 



■ IDtil 



THE TOM CAT- 



32 



• ititts-fEL.tstiiiat 



And what a 
Fine Tail I 

are allowed for each cross. On the material used for the chair back in 
your picture, each cross worked out at about an eighth of an inch across, 
but if the canvas you are using happens to be a coarser one, you may 
perhaps find your crosses work out much larger, in which case you must 
go over two threads each time so as to get your animals the right size 
for the chair back. 

Perhaps you would rather not make your chair back of Hardanger 
canvas at all, but would prefer to use linen, or some material that has 
not got wide even threads ; this is not easy to count when working your 
crosses. In that case you must first tack Penelope canvas over your 
work, and embroider 
the cats over this; 
the enlarged designs iiiiiii»t.iiifii«|^|»<»|«|«'tij.iiiit.i;iii..'iii-i!.»i«i.iti. .•.!.» •.i.;;;. 

in your pictures were 
worked on Penelope 
canvas, and you can 
see what nice large 
holes it has, and how 
easy it is to work on. 
And when you have 
finished the designs 
you just cut away the 
canvas quite close to 
the design, and pull 
the threads of can- 
vas out of the cros- 
ses You can put 
cross-stitch on to any 
material in this way. 




lt«IJHUI»-fl» ll*!! 

ri«iliiitili«il lltil 

it»!«ti!i((ti>ti«t%iiitiiiiiiiiii 

iii!»iinit!inn»iimiu»nni 

lllliiiiltlilKilllltMltlltSttli 

I ; ki tiii IS («i it ti ill II II «i ■••)•;•>•>* 
It •«iiiiiiiiiiitiiiii«Miii**i)<f ;•*!!! 



-AND HIS ENEMY. 



33 



A Hardanger HandKerchief 

Sachet. 

Have you thought yet what you are going to make Mother for 
her birthday present ? How would you like to work her a handkerchief 
sachet in Hardanger Embroidery ? You don't know how ? Well, if 
you follow this little talk very carefully, I think you will soon learn. 

What is Mother's 
favourite colour? Rose 
Pink ? Very well ; how 
delighted she will be with 
what you are going to 
make ! 



P%^ 




\. 



^' What to get for the 

""" "SkF Sachet. 

"^^4^^^ ■ Can't you take Mother 

shopping with you one 
day, because you will want 
P* to buy a few little things 

for the sachet. You will 

want a piece of Congress 

Canvas — cream or white 

'' ■:^^^ ■" —a square 12 inches each 

THE FINISHED SACHtf p \ t 

way, a ball ot Ardern s 
" Star Sylko " No. 744, size 5, a square of white silk the same size as 
the canvas for lining the sachet, a crewel needle, 3 yards of pink ribbon 
half-an-inch wide (The best kind to get is a silk ribbon having threads 
running through, that you pull and draw the ribbon up into a ruche. This 
saves you all the trouble of running a thread through to make a ruche). 
You also want a little pink sewing silk, some white sewing silk, a pair of 
sharp scissors witli points, and, of course, your thimble. 
How to Start. 

First, make sure your canvas is perfectly even all round, 12 
inches on each side. When cutting it, be careful to cut between the 

34 



Little Blocks in 
Satin Stitch. 

same threads all the way down. 

Turn in about a quarter of an inch all 

round very carefully, and tack it. i^ 

Fig. 1 shows the edge being tacked. 'L"::H:.';f:fL*jfHHH::H::r;'-' I 

When you come to a corner, just I:;:::^;;^;:;:.';:**;:'^*'*'*^'''*''^' 

turn in again the end of the second ••••••j«iHifii:;ff:h'ffff:.';;:::' j 

side, to make it quite neat. You "!*'"iL'!iH.';;*L'Jf!f!n.*:?::"i*:.* j 
will see in Fig. 1 what I mean. '>^i*'liVtlV:,Y:ilUUiVillliii:tV:l'. 

With the Pink Thread. •••.'••o*''.*.%*i::::.'::::r:::::.'%:: / 

The tacking done, the pretty Fig. i. 

work begins. Thread your crewel needle with the *' Sylko." At one 
corner count 24 threads in from each side. The hole just where these 
threads cross is your starting point. Now leave 3 holes below, and in 
the 4th bring your needle up from underneath for a satin stitch. You 
will see how to do this stitch in making the doll's bedspread (page 67), 
only as you are using a different kind of canvas here, you leave 3 holes 
instead of one. Make 4 of these stitches. Leave 3 holes, and into the 
4th start another little block of satin stitches. Do 4 of these little 
blocks. This brings you to the corner. Fig. 2 shows the little blocks. 

To turn the corner, after making your 4th stitch, bring your 
needle up into the 4th hole from the top of your satin stitch, not the 
4th from the bottom as before. Make one little block this way. 
Turn another corner in exactly the same way, bringing the needle 
up in the 4th hole from the top of the satin stitch. Start another 
block. When you have put the needle down for the 4th stitch of 

this block, bring it up 4 holes below 
II the last hole at which you brought 
:: it up. Then put it back into the 
[11 last hole at which you brought it up. 
»» Fig. 3 will make this clear. Make 
II 4 stitches, now working from right 
•' to left. Turn again, and make 

Fig. 2. ^ 

35 



!**««i}»|«ir)t)iik»«»«at««»>» latta 





A Handkerchief 
Sachet. 

4 stitches, working from left to 
Hif:::ji:i*i:IL"Hi:!;H:L'hl:::.'H:::ntr:: right. You will notice that wher- 
ever you turn a little corner — or 
make an angle -2 stitches go into 
the same hole, one each way. 

When you have made 8 little 
hlocks in this way, turn again, 
and make 4 blocks of satin stitch 
as you did on the first side, the 
,,. ^ last stitch of the 4th block should 

fid- 3. 

take you back into the hole we 
culled your starting point. If it doesn't, you have made a little mistake 
somewhere -either you have missed a thread, or made two stitches 
in one hole, or something like that, and you will have to undo the 
work until you find your mistake. This sounds rather hard lines, 
doesn't it, but unless you have got this outside part right, you 
cannot cut and draw the threads properly, and we want to have 
Mother's sachet quite perfect, don't we ? 
With the Scissors. 

How much quicker wc seem to 
get on with scissors than with a 
needle and cotton, don't we ? It is 
such quick work to cut a hole, but 
quite slow work to mend one ! 
Well, you are going to do some 
" scissors work " now, but you will 
have to do it carefully, and make 
sure first just which threads you are 
going to cut. I want you to notice 
one important thing. Always cut 
across the ends of your stitches, 
never along the sides of them. Isn't 

36 




Fig. i. 




Fig. 7. 

not to cut too far, that is to 
say, never cut beyond the 
satin stitches, only cut the 
threads enclosed by them. 

Pull out the threads you 
have cut, and you will have 
a little corner, like that 
shown in Fig. 4. 

Weaving Work. 

Now you have to do the 
weaving, and this is very 
easy, and nice work to do. 
Only remember not to drag 



Cutting the 
Canvas Threads. 

this quite clear ? Well, look at the little 
diagram for cutting. Fig. 5., You cut the 
3 threads between A and B, and between 
A and C, and between C and J, and 
between D and E, and between G and H, 
but never those between J and I, or 
between I and D. You see what I mean 
now, don't you ? Then be careful always 




C I 



Fig. 5. 




the threads too tightly, but you must not 
have them loose — just firm and even. 
Bring your needle up from underneath, in 
the middle of one of the groups of 4 threads, 
take it over 2 threads on one side up into 
the middle again, and over 2 threads on 
the other side. Look at Fig. 4 again. 
Repeat this until you have 5 stitches on 
each side. Bring your needle up between 
another set of threads, and repeat. When 

37 



A Handkerchief 
Sachet. 



; you have finished all the weaving, fasten 
j: off neatly at the back of the canvas, and 
your corner is done. Work the other 
3 corners in the same way. 

Putting on the ,,.... ,^, ^ 

'"' Ribbon. i]' ' ■ ■- " **»♦»«« 1^* •*• J'***" ; 

Take your ribbon H 

and cut off two pieces, . 

each 8 inches long. These •• 

are for the bow. Divide the *] 




Fig. 9. 



remainder into four equal 
lengths, and mark each little 
division with a small pin. This is so 
that you will use just the same length 
on each of the four sides of your 
square. With a needle, draw out three 
or four threads running through the 





Fig. 13. 



Fig. 8. 

middle of the ribbon, and pull 
these gently to draw the ribbon 
up. It is not enough to pull on 
one thread or two, because, 
although it is easier to draw, 
it may snap before you get 
very far. Draw up the ribbon 
until it is exactly the size to go 
round your square ; then pin 
the gathered ribbon round the 
sides, taking care to get one of 
the divisions marked by the 
pin on each side of the square. 
Thread a needle with pink 
sewing silk, and sew the ribbon 



38 




The White 
Silk Lining. 

on, through the centre, taking a very tiny 
stitch on top, and a longer one under- 
neath. Make a back-stitch every now 
and then, by putting the needle back 
instead of forward. This makes it a little 
more secure. Allow a little extra fulness 
at the corners, so as to turn these care- 
fully and evenly, and here you will need 
one or tv^^o little back-stitches. W'iien 



Fig. 10. 

you get round to the corner from 
which you started, turn in the end 
of your ribbon, and join it neatly 
to your starting end. Take out 
the pins. 
Lining the Sachet. 

Take the square of white silk, 
and turn in once all round about 
a quarter-inch, and tack it. Lay 








Fig. 11. 



Fig. 12. 

it on your square of canvas, so that the 
turned-in sides of canvas and silk come 
together. Pin these together all round. 
With the white sewinL* silk, hem the silk 
to the canvas carefully, so thar each 
stitch catches up a thread of the canvas^ 
but does not come through the gathered 
ribbon. At the second corner, slip in 
one end of one of \our lenqth.s of ribboi^ 



.S9 



A Handkerchief 
Sachet. 

between the silk and canvas, and when you come to that, hem it in with 
the silk to the canvas. When the hemming is finished, the tacking 
stitches can be taken out of the silk. 

Folding and Finishing. 

You have now got a silk-lined canvas square, with a little end of 
ribbon attached to one corner. You must now fold your square so that 
all the worked corners meet, as you see in the picture on page 34. We 
will call j^our square A, B, C, D, as the corners are marked in the 
diagram, Fig. 6. Divide each side in half (just put a tiny pin in to mark 
the division), and call these points E, F, G, and H. Now fold along the 
lines E to F, F to G, G to H, and H to E. This will bring your corners 
A, B, C and D all together in the middle if you have done your 
measuring quite carefully. (See Fig. 7). Let us call D the point that 
has the ribbon end. Now A, B and C have all to be joined together, but 
D is not sewn to them. D's little ribbon end is only tied to the centre, 
so that the sachet can be opened and closed. Catch A F and B F and 
A E and C E together with just a few tiny stitches under the ribbon, 
sew the points A, B, C neatly together. And here is where you attach 
your last little bit of ribbon having turned in one end neatly. While 

you are sewing on this centre you had better 

keep your left fingers inside the sachet, and 

your thumb outside. Then you will be quite 

sure that you are not sewing right through 

the sachet, because it would be serious if 

when Mother came 

to put her handker- 

chiefs in, she 

couldn't get them 

down because it 

was sewn through, 

wouldn't it ? You 

have now only to 

40 




Pretty 
Corners. 

tie your two ends of ribbon in a nice bow, and Mother's handkerchief 
sachet is complete. 

Of course, you will want to make some more of these sachets, and 
you can work them in other colours, or line them with coloured silk. 
It would look pretty, for instance, to have a deep cream canvas, worked 
with Ardern's " Star Sylko " No. 734, Size 5, which is a lovely cream 
shade. Then have for the linini^, forget-me-not blue, and blue ribbon 
to match. Or you could work the satin-stitch in dark green, No. 753, 
and the w-eaving in a paler green. No. 751, and have a white silk lining 
and pale green ribbon. And I am sure you will think of lots of other 
pretty colours you can use. 

Some other Pretty Corners. 

Perhaps you would rather work another kind of corner. Six others 
are shown, any of which you would be able to manage, I am sure. For 
four of them, you do not have to cut any threads. The one with the 
cross in the middle. Fig. 8, would be very quickly worked. The outer 
part of this is worked almost like the corner on the sachet, only there 
are no straight blocks in a row here, and you take 5 stitches over 
5 threads for each block. Then you work 5 stitches over 5 threads each 
way into one hole in the middle for the centre cross. 

Fig. 9 is another 
little corner, just like the 
one on the sachet, only 
instead of cutting any 
threads, you fill up alter- 
nate squares with satin- 
stitch blocks. 

Then the star pat- 
tern, Fig. 10, is pretty 
and easy. Y6u start by 
taking a stitch over 8 
threads, then take one 

41 




A Handkerchief 
Sachet. 

over 7, over 6, over 5, over 4, over 3, over 2. Now over 2 again, and 
so on, up to 8. Then start another row at right angles to the first, 
and two more rows in the same way. The long stitches in the middle 
are taken into the holes from which the short stitches were taken. 

Another easy little design shows two straight rows of satin-stitch 
crossing two in opposite ways (Fig. 11). 

Sometimes a few rows of blocks outside a design will improve it, 
and make it look bolder. This is the case with the open-work square, 
Fig. 12. A second row of blocks has been added outside the first, 
working the stitches the other way. 

In the last open-work corner, Fig. 13, 4 stitches are taken over 
4 threads, and 5 over 8 threads, then 4 over 5 threads again, and so on. 
All the threads are then cut away, except the 4 in the middle of each 
side, and these are woven as usual. 

Now set to work and see what you can do. After a little practice, 
you will probably be able to make up some corners for yourself, but until 
you are quite sure of the work, it is better to practise those I have 
shown you. 




[2^^ 



Pale Blue and Heliotrope. 

You don't know what to make for Auntie ? Why not make her a 
pretty bag to keep her work in ? The one on this page is in pale 
blue, and looks ever so pretty. Too difficult ? Oh no, everything is 
easy when you know the way, and you are going to have a little lesson 
in Hairpin Work to-day. No, the work isn't exactly done on a 
hairpin, but on a staple. This is similar in shape, only larger. 

For this bag you will want your staple — get one about 2 inches in 
width — and a No. 1 steel crochet hook. You will also want a ball of 

Strutt's Macrame Thread 
No 512, Size 10. Then, if 
you want to line your bag, 
you will need something 
pretty for this. The bag 
you see here is lined with a 
heliotrope sateen, which 
peeps very prettily through 
the pale blue. One more 
thing — a few little white 
bone rings for the drawing- 
up strings to go through. 

All About Loops. 

Commence by making a 

loop in your thread, you will 

want this loop to be as long 

as half the distance between 

the two prongs of your 

hen you 

side the 

Icnot comes just in the 

e. So do not tighten 

il you see that it will 

come just here. Put this 




>-> ^^ 






^ T^V ->^> - ::'^V' : : /:^ r>#> ::< the two prongs 

^t'^'^I^^^^iV^^^^ staple, so that w 

g* ^ r^'-^^^ ^^^iTj ^''^f*^ - V hang it over one 

i*^.v ^i;^ ^-^ i*,'^c ^'„: V m.ddi 

* "*^^js l^'*^- ---.^T^ ' It unt 



The heliotrope sateen shows through the 
pale blue hairpin %York. 

43 



A Bag in 
Hairpin Work. 

loop over the left side of the staple. Put the thread across the front, 

and over the right prong of the staple. Now take your crochet hook, 

put it in the loop, and catch the thread that you have put over the right 

prong from front to back. This makes the first loop on the right. Slip 

the hook over the right prong *, turn the staple over towards you. 

wrapping the thread round the left prong, 

as you do so. By turning, you now make 

the left prong the right one, you have 

now one loop on your crochet hook. Put 

the hook under the loop which is now on 

the left side of the staple, draw the thread 

through this. This gives you two loops 

on your hook. Put the thread over the 

crochet hook, and draw it through the 

two loops. Slip the hook over the right 

prong, and repeat from *. The picture 

shows the thread being drawn through 

the loop. 

You must keep on making these loops 
until you have 90 on each side of the 
staple. Then finish off in this way. When 
you have made the 90th loop, don't turn 
the staple, but make two or three chain 
stitches, cut the thread from the ball 
about 3 inches from your hook, and draw 
it through the loop on your hook. This 
finishes the strip. 

Take the strip off the staple. Don't be afraid — it won't come 
undone. Make 6 strips the same length. These strips are twice as 
long as the bag is deep. In making the strips, don't pull the loops 
round the staple too tightly. After a little practice the work will come 
quite easy, and you will get along quickly with it. 

44 




The work being done on the 
staple. Notice that the com- 
mencing knot must be quite 
in the middle. 



Shaping the 
Little Bag. 

Joining the Strips. 

Having finished your strips you have to join them. One of the 
pictures shows this being done. Take two strips and lay them side by 
side on the table, with the commencing ends of each towards you. Take 
up on your crochet hook three loops from the strip on the left, then 
three loops from the strip on the right. As the six loops lie on the hook 
— three from each side — draw the three from the right through the 
three from the left, with the help of your left thumb and first finger. 
(If you look at the picture you will see that these loops usually lie 
twisted. They should be taken on to the hook in this way, and if one is 
not twisted, turn it over with your finger and thumb). 

You have now three loops on your hook, which were picked up on 
the right hand strip. Take up three more from the left, and so on, for 
the length of the strip. When you get to the end of the strip (your last 
loop will have been taken from the right as you started on the left), 
stick the hook with the loops on into the middle of the strip on the left, 
and drawing through the length of thread which was left at the end of 
the strip, fasten off securely. 

Now take the third strip and lay it on the right of the second 
strip; start by ta!dng up three loops from the third. In joining, 

see that you always commence 
on the odd strip, that is to say, 
on 1,3, 5, 7, etc., so that whether 
you are joining strips 2 to 3, or 
3 to 4, you commence on strip 3, 
and whether you are joining 4 to 
5, or 5 to 6, you commence on 
strip 5. 

Getting it into Shape. 

You must now fold in half your 
long piece of work, and join up 
the sides to make it into a bag. 




Here are two strips being joined. 



45 



Putting in 
the Cord. 

The sides are joined just the same as the other part, taking first 3 loops 
from one side and 3 from the other until you get to the bottom. With 
a little piece of thread, fasten off very neatly on the wrong side, sticking 
the hook in the middle of one of the strips before finishing off, to make 
it quite firm. 

To finish the top of the bag make a loop in the thread, draw this 
through the top of one of the strips, make 5 chain stitches, then 1 double 
crochet into the joined loops, 5 chain, 1 d c into middle of next strip. 
Do this all round the top of the bag, and fasten off. 

For the cord, make a chain of 36 inches. Sew 10 little white rings 
at even distances round the bag, about 2 inches from the top. Run the 
cord through these rings twice, and when you get back the second time 
to the ring you started from, join the cord neatly with a needle and 
cotton. Now you see it will pull up quite nicely each side, and Auntie 
can hang the bag on her arm. 

We have not talked about lining the bag. Perhaps you don't want 
to line it, but if you do, make a bag of silk or sateen (like the one 
described on page 11), the same size as the macrame bag, and slip it 
into it, just catching it at the corners with a few tiny stitches, so that 
the lining does not slip out of the bag. This lining should have a nice 
deep hem at the top, which could peep over the top of the macrame bag. 
Your bag is now finished, and if Auntie is not delighted with it, I shall 
be very much surprised. 



46 



The Amiable Pussy Cats. 



Doesn't your pussy cat 
always like to be near at hand 
when the table is laid for tea, 
on the chance of perhaps getting- 
a saucer of milk? Of course, 
you never let pussy himself sit 
on the table, but it would be 
rather uncommon, wouldn't it, 
to have a cosy on the table with 
two dear little pussies worked 
on it like the one in the picture? 
I think Mother would like it, 
loo, don't you? 

The cosy cover in our 
picture was made of white 
Hardanger canvas, and is not 
fastened to the tea cosy itself, 
but is made loose, so that it can 
be taken off and washed. Red 
" Bright-eye " thread was used 
for w o r k i n g 
the cats. 

You will 
want to make 
it the right size 
for Mother's 
tea cosy, won't 
you? A\' e 1 1 , 
you will be 
able to get it 
exactly the 
size, if you 
first take a 
piece of paper, 




HOW THET LOOK ON THE COSY. 

47 



lay the cosy on it, and draw 
round the cosy with a pencil, 
then cut the paper out on the 
pencil line. 

This gives you the shape of 
the side of the cosy, but the 
material will need to be cut 
larger than this to allow for a 
seam and a hem across the 
bottom, so take another piece of 
paper, and using the piece you 
have already cut as a pattern, 
cut the side out again, this time 
allowing an extra quarter of an 
inch all round the curved edge 
for the seam, and an inch along 
the straight edge for the hem. 

Now that you have a pat- 
tern, cut out two pieces of 
canvas exactly this shape, and 
you can com- 
mence to make 
up your cosy 
cover. 

The hems at 
the bottom of 
the cosy have 
to be hem- 
stitched, so you 
had better pull 
the threads out 
for this first. 
Measure each 
side up if 



A Tea Cosy 
lor Mother. 

inches from the straight edge and draw out four threads. 

Directions for the simple hemstitching used are given on page 30, 
but before you do this part you must work your cats and join the two 
sides together, so that you can turn up your hem all along both sides 
evenly, and not have to join the hem after they are turned up. 

Work your cats in cross-stitch. This stitch was described on 
page 25, so that if you don't know how to do it, just turn to this page 
and see how it is done. 

You will be able to count the crosses from the drawing you have 
of the two cats. The lowest cross of the tail of the cat sitting down 
should come six threads above the open threads for your hem ; this 
will help you in starting to work the design. Work two cats on each 
side of the cosy. 

When you have finished the pussy cats, place the two sides 
together, with the right sides facing one another, and sew round the 
curved edges with a run and back-stitch, then oversew along the cut 



IT 


1 1 ! 


z 








V 


t s^ i 


s? 


^ ^^ ^^n 


ss s 




is 11 


n ^ X^ "^X ^ 




SSS SSSSS^ i r" 


Xl ^XXX/N^ aa 


X X X A rS ''^ X I 


Xp^aX/saX^X 


V ^X^K^K-i Lj 


SSS S^^SS S 


X'^^x^XXX'^ 


3^S^ ^S s^s 


^ XXKXX/sXXS J 


ss^^ ss s§^ 


X X X A X X X 


§SS^ ?x§ 


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^X ^S\ 


X >^ A X X ^ 


§ § 


X ^x§x§ 


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V s? 5\ A ' 


^ X 


gixsss SSIj 








X u 




^s 




i_,s^s 




gg§ 


1 


2 


t ± : 


X 



THE DESIGN FOR COUNTING THE OBOBSEB. 
48 



Sewing on 
the Cord. 



i«iiiiiiliiifiiffiiiiiiiiififiiiffffiiiiiiiaiifi«iifiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 

[iaiiiillilifiiififiiiiitiiiiiiiiliifiitiitisiiiitiaiiiifiiitiiiiiiiat 



iBtaifiiiffiiiiiiiifiiiiiiiaitiaiiiiiaittiiiii 
iBiiiiaBffiiiiili|ififiiii3iiii|M«iiiiaiiiii 
iil»yi|iiMiaiiieiifiis(ati{ifM|iSitiitiiifi«i 
iiin^ByitiifiiiiiaiiisitiM^^M|yifaiaitt 
i • • i ^IjHKyi t li iyA(|Mk« * • I ^^B|K 

ifiiiitHBiui^^Hujta^^Vniiiiifi 
iiiiaiiinB^^^^^^^uff^^Pliaiiif Iff lift 
fiii«iiiilli^^H^^^^Hl|^i«Biaiiiiiii«i!)*« 

tiiiiitiiuH||ni^^P^B|H|^iiiitaiiiiiatai 
iiiiiiiiiH|||^B^flBt^^HKi«aiit«t«ii£t«« 

iisi«ifiilli^Hfllifiif^^Pilitiiiiii|iiitiitfi§i_ 
fiiiiiifffisflfreiiiiiisii^Biatsiiiiiafiiiiitiiffifii 
fiiiNi(«itiHiitiiaiiitfH||ia;aiifiiiifiiiiiatai§ 

iiiiiii«kgi«sMtaii»i»iiiililiitffitiiiifiiiitiiif 

iitii»«iiiff«iiiiaiaiaiftiiiiaiiiifiii«i*ii«"«««aiaiii«>assis3E]ii 

tiiSi«iiiitiiitiii§i|fiiaiffiitfiiifaiii|iiiiiaf|i|fiitiis 

iiiiiiiiiiiitii««iiiii«iitiitfifiii»iiif|iiiiti»iaiaiii 

{iiiiiiiiifiiiiiieiiftiiiifiiitiiiiiiifiiMiitaiaftiii 

£if«isfiiiiattftiaiiiiiitaiiiiiiiitiiiiifiiiit«iffiii 

THE CATS WORKED ON PENELOPE CANVAS. 



iifiiiiffliaiaiatai 

i«iiiaiiiaiaiiii 

lifiiiiiiiiiiaii 

iiiifiiatatj 

'tiaiaiBiaij 

iiiiiiaii 




edges to 
make 
them n(»at. 

N o w 
turn up 
your hem 
and hem- 
stitch it, 
then turn 
the cosy 
on the 
rig-ht side, 
and sew a 
piece of 
red cord 
over the 

seam of the cosy, making three little loops in the centre at the top. 
You must use red cotton to sew on the cord, and take tiny hemming 
stitches that will not show too much. 

If you don't want to make your cosy cover of canvas, but would like 
to use linen or some other material, you can work the cats on Penelope 
canvas, tacked over the material, as you learnt to do when making 
the Feeder. 

What a Contrast ! 

Lazy Lizzie uses pins 

When she sees a tear ! 
Her buttons lie upon the floor. 
The lace is off her pinafore ; 

And don't the people stare ! 

Hilda is industrious, 

Nothing ever tires her ; 
She simply gets her sewing-box, 
* And quickly mends her pretty frocks ; 

And everyone admires her ! 



F. K. 



49 



The Orchid Flower Bag. 

Have you been trying very hard to think of something else that 
you can make for Mother ? I wonder if she has a Stocking Bag ? If 
not, you could easily make her one of these, couldn't you, and I know- 
she w^ould like to have one, especially if she has several little boys and 
girls to mend stockings for. If you make her a lovely big bag like the 
one in the picture, she will be able to keep all the stockings that need 
mending together, and will know exactly where to find them when 
mending day comes round. 

It will be 
best to 
make the 
bag of a 
material 
that will 
wash nice- 
ly. A good 
strong 
Holland 
or Crash 
would be 
very suit- 
able. You 
will want 
a strip of 
material 
about a 
yard long 
and fifteen 
inches wide 
to make a 
good - sized 
bag. 

This Bag will hold a lot of stockings. 
50 




Threading the Cord 
through Rings. 



The pretty 
little flowers 
across the bag 
are worked in 
cross - stitch, 
and you have 
an enlarged 
diagram of the 
design which 
you will be able 
to c o u n t the 
crosses from. 

Use "Bright- 
eye" embroidery thread for work- 
ing the flowers. A purple thread 
would look pretty, but perhaps 
you know another colour that 
Mother is very fond of, and would 
like to use that. 

You must work the designs 
before you make up the bag. 
Fold the strip of material in half 
and tack a strip of Penelope 
Canvas across about four inches 

iiil 




THE OBCHID DESIGN FOR THE BAG. 



up f 


rom the 


fold. 


Di r ec - 


tions 


for w^ork- 


ing cross-stitch 


over 


Penelope 


Canvas are 


given 


on page 


27, in 


case you 


want 


to know 


how 


this is 


done. 




How to make 


up a 


bag, too, 



was described on page 11, and 
you can make this one in exactly 
the same way. You w^ill notice 
that this one has a cord threaded 
through rings outside of the bag 
instead of through a runner at 
the top though, and if you like 
this way better you can sew 
twelve white bone rings at 
equal distances apart round the 
outside of the bag just at the 




A ROW OF ORCHCD9 WORKED ON CANVAS. 

51 



A Cross-stitch 
Alphabet. 

bottom of the hem, and put the cord through these. You will want 
about two yards of coloured cord, in the same shade as the thread you 
used for working the flowers. Thread the cord twice round the bag 
through the rings, join it together, and your bag is complete. 



An Alphabet that can be copied 
in Cross-stitch. 




52 



More Letters for Cross=stitch 















I 









liilllil 



ill III 



II 



ii 



11 






I 



iiiiiii 

i!i::::5!i:::: 






53 




Furnishings for 
Dolly's Cottage. 



54 



For Dolly's Bed. 



One of the most enjoyable times of the day spent with dolly is the 
time when you can undress and put her to bed, just as mother does baby. 

And how much nicer, too, if you can feel that you have made all the 
bedclothes yourself. You may perhaps think that you could never 
manage that, but just look at these pretty little pictures of the things 
and see how simple they all are. I am sure then that you will want to 
try and copy them for your own dear dolly. 

Before starting to make the outfit for the doll's bed, get your 
materials together. Perhaps someone gave you a bedstead on your last 
birthday ? If not, buy one the right size for your favourite doll. The 
one in the picture is a metal one with a w^re mattress. 

For the mattress, try to get a material something like that generally 
used for mattresses, but not so thick; a striped print would do quite 
nicely. The mattress illustrated and the pillows are made of grey and 
white striped material, bound with red ribbon. 

The cover for the wire mattress is made of white calico, the 
blankets of cream flannel, the sheets and pillow-cases of white 
linen ; the bedspread and nightdress case of canvas worked with 
•' Brighteye " thread. 

The 
Mattress. 

Cut out two 
pieces of 
material a 
little larger 
than the 
bedstead, and 
another long 
narrow piece 
gM the depth of 

* the mattress. 

THE BED BEADY FOR DOLLY. gg^ ^^g gj^g 

55 




Making the 
Bedding. 

of the narrow piece around the 
sides of one of the large pieces 
(running stitch will do quite well 
for this part of the work), leaving 
the edges of the seam on the 
outside. Then join the other side 
of the narrow strip to three of the 
sides of the other piece you have 
cut, leaving one side open to put 
the filling in. This mattress is 
filled with horse-hair ; but cotton 
wool, small pieces of rag, or paper 
could be used instead. 

When the mattress is filled, 
sew up the fourth side and bind all 
the seams with narrow ribbon. Red 
ribbon is used on the mattress 





THE MATTRESS. 



THE COVKB FOR THE WIRE MATTRESS. 

illustrated, and a little specimen is 
illustrated, showing how to put it on. 
The ribbon is held over the seam 
edges with the left hand and back- 
stitched along, taking your stitches 
right through the seam edges and 
both edges of the ribbon each time. 

Now you will need to stab the 
mattress in places, as in the picture, 
to make it look just like the one on 
your own bed. 

Take a long needle threaded 
with coarse thread the same colour 
as the binding, put the needle 
through the mattress, leaving a long 

56 



iiuifruiiiiiiniiuiiuiitiKitHiii?! 



THE HEMSTITCHED TOP SHEET. 

around, and sew two narrow pieces 
each corner of the cover: the 
cover is tied to the wire mattress 
with these pieces of tape. 

The Blankets. 

Cut the flannel out large 
enough to cover the top and sides 
of mattress and allow for tucking 
up. 

Turn down about a quarter 
of an i-nch single turning at each 
end of the blanket on the wrong 
side, then work in blanket stitch 
across both ends. You will see 
that a little specimen of work is 
illustrated, showing how to make 
this stitch. It is worked from 



Sheets and 
Blankets. 

end, make two more stitches through 
the mattress in the same place, 
pulling the thread tightly, finish at 
the same side as you began, tie a 
knot with the thread used and the 
long end left at the beginning and 
cut the threads, leaving small ends 
of threads beyond the knot. 

Look at the illustration to see 
the positions in which you must put 
these stitches and knots. 

The Wire Mattress Cover. 

Cut the material a little larger 
than the wire mattress to allow for 
a quarter-inch hem ; hem the piece 
of tape (or coarse thread will do) at 

mmmm\mmmmnmmi\\^ 




I 



THE BLANKET EDGED WITH BLUE 




57 



Making Dolly's 
Bedclothes. 



left to right. The turned 




muJ- 1 




SOME OF THK HXlTCHKb UbKD 

No. 1 Shows Blanket Stitch. 
No. 2 shows Outline Stitch. 
No. 3 shows Whipping Stitch. 
No. 4 shows the Stitch for 
Binding the Mattress. 



in edge of your blanket must be held along 
the first finger of your left hand, and the 
needle placed in your work downwards 
towards you, the thread always being held 
under your thumb as you make a stitch, so 
that when you pull your needle you have a 
knot right at the edge of the work. 

The Sheets. 

These should be cut a little longer than 
the blankets to allow for the wide hems, and 
for turning back at the top. The very 
narrowest of hems should be put at each 
side of the sheets, and one about half an 
inch wide along the bottom of each ; but the 
top hems are about three-quarters of an 
inch wide, and are worked in ladder hem- 
stitching. All about how to do hem-stitching 
will be found on page 30. 

At the corner of the top sheet the 
initial B is worked. Of course, you must 
work the first letter of your doll's name. If 
you are not sure you can write the initial on 
linen yourself, get someone to do it for you; 
then work it over in a fancy outline stitch 
with embroidery thread. You have a little 
specimen of work showing how the outline 
stitch was made for the B. In working this 
you hold your thread down along the design 
of your initial with your left hand, and take 
a small stitch over the thread, putting your 
needle in just above the thread and bringing 
it out just underneath ; this makes a little 
58 




Pillows and 
Pillow Cases. 

knotted stitch, and the knots are repeated along the design at equal 
distances apart. You can use this outline stitch for many purposes. 

The Pillows. 

Make the pillows 
of the same material 
as you used for the 
mattress. These will 
need to be each about 
three inches wide, 
and a little longer 
than half the width one of the pillows. 

of the bed For each pillow cut two pieces of material exactly the same 
size. Run the two pieces together round three of the edges on the 
wrong side, then turn on to the right side, stuff the pillows with wool or 
small pieces of rag, and oversew the edges of the fourth side together. 

The Pillow-Cases. 

Make the pillow-cases in the same way as the pillows but a little 
larger, and hem round one end so that you can slip the pillow in. Sew 
two pieces of very narrow tape to each side of the open end, and tie the 
pillow into the case. 

One of the pillow-cases has a frill round. To make this, cut out a 

narrow piece of linen, 
hem one side of it, and 
work a simple crochet 
edge on to this. Or 
you can use Cash's 
Frillings for this, which 
are made ro draw up 
easily into frills. 

When the frill is 
ready to sew on, roll 

THE PLAIN PILLOW CASE. ■' 




59 



Dolly's Bed and 
Bedclothes. 

the edge of the other side of frill between your finger and thumb and 
sew over the roll, as shown in the little illustration. Use a coarser 
thread for this, working from right to left, pulling the thread to gather 
the frill. as you are working it. This is called whipping, and is really 
very much the same as oversewing, only the stitches are taken right 
over the hem. Cash's Frilling needs no whipping. 

Oversew the frill around the edge of the pillow-case. 

The Bedspread. 

Cut out a piece 
of canvas large 
enough to cover 
the bed, and hang 
over the mattress, 
allowing extra 
around for the 
hem. 

Hemstitch around, 
taking two sets of 
threads together ; 
for the second side 
of the hemstitch sew 
togetner two sets of threads, but take up alternate threads to those 
taken up on the other side ; this serpentine stitch is shown on page 30. 
The pattern of the bedspread is shown on page 61. 
Each -slanting stitch is worked over two holes — that is, pull the 
needle through a hole, leave two holes on the cross, put the needle into 
the next hole, leave two holes on the cross in the opposite direction, pull 
the needle up through the next hole, put the needle back into the same 
hole as the end of first stitch, and up again through the hole at the 
beginning of the second stitch. 

Continue to work in this way all round the piece of canvas. 




A PILLOW CASE WITH A FBILL. 



60 



Working the 
Fancy Border. 

Work three more rows like this, 
arranged so that the stitches form a 
diamond pattern as you see illustrated. 

Then fill in the corners with the 
same pattern, and work the pattern in 
the centre of dolly's bedspread. 

The Nightdress Case. 

The nightdress case is made with 
the same materials as the bedspread. 

Cut out a piece of canvas two and a half inches wide and four and 
a half inches long ; fold this so that it makes a bag with a flap over it 
the same size as the bag. Put the two ends of the canvas for bag 
together, and work in blanket stitch round through both pieces at once, 
also around the edges of the flap to finish off the little case. 

Work three diamonds on the front of the nightdress case. This 
completes the outfit for dolly's bed, and I am sure she will like it. 




THE NIGHTDRESS CASE. 





THE STITCH FOR THE BEDSPREAD. 



THE BEDSPREAD. 



61 




Tliis Patchwork Quilt is for the spare bedroom used by 
Seraphine's Doll Friends when they visit her. 



62 




A Patchwork Quilt. 

UPPOSING Miss Seraphine's doll-friend Clementine 
were to write and say she was coming on a visit 
next week. Wouldn't you be in a fix with no nice 
bedspread for the spare bed, because you were 
reading that book instead of attending to the dolls' 
spring cleaning? You will have to see about a 
new bedspread quickly, and you can make one 
that will be very pretty, with just a few little 
pieces. Here is where those scraps that Grandma 
gave you the other day will come in usefully. 
We are going to make a patchwork quilt. It won't be as large 
as the- one Grandma has, but Clementine doesn't require a very big 
one to cover her. First, let us just see what pieces we have got 
together. Some unbleached calico, some pieces with roses and rose- 
buds on, some dark ones with leaves and bunches of grapes, one piece 
with a little pink flower all by itself, a few flowery bits, and some with 
different kinds of spots. There is just enough here to make something 
really lovely, and I shouldn't wonder if when Clementine sees it she 
doesn't want to change bedspreads with Seraphine. 

Arranging the Pieces. 

But to get to work. We must think out a little scheme of how 
we are going to arrange the pieces. Whatever you do, don't put the 
dark ones on one side, or throw them away, because they are just what 
you will want to show up the light ones nicely. We will decide to have 
our design in squares. A little square of the pink flower could come 
in the centre. Then to show it up, a dark square with leaves and a 
bunch of grapes could come above, below, and at each side of it. You 
might have four little spotty patterns at the corners between two dark 
bits, and above the top and below the bottom dark piece might be a 
little fancy pattern. At the four corners left, we will put a rose or 
rosebud. Look at the picture of a patchwork quilt, and you will see 
how we have arranged them all. Then we might have a border of 
the unbleached calico. 

Before we go any further, do you know what makes this so 

63 




Tacking the material through 
the paper square. An old 
letter has been used here. 



The Patchwork 
Quilt. 

attractive and pretty? It is the dark pieces 
— the pieces you wanted to throw away — 
and the plain border. These darker pieces 
throw up the pretty hght designs, and make 
them look even more pretty, whereas, if 
you put all light together, you could not 
so easily pick them out. 

Covering and Joining 
the Squares. 

If you haven't done any patchwork, 
you will wonder how to get the little 
squares even, and to join them together. 
This is how it is managed. You want 15 squares of stiff paper, each 
measuring i^ inches each way. Stiff old letters will do beautifully to cut 
up for this Get a piece of cardboard, i^ inches each way, and cut 
your papers by this, taking great care that they are perfectly even 
and true. Cut out your 15 pieces of material in squares, which should 
measure 2 inches each way. That will allow you J inch on each side 
for turning the end over the paper to make it neat. Tack a piece over 
each square of paper, as in the picture. When the 15 squares are 
covered, join them all together on the wrong side with oversewing 
stitches, arranging them as we decided. You will see how to do 

oversewing on page 28. 



How to Manage the Border. 

For the border, cut a plain strip of 
unbleached calico, 2 inches wide and about 
37 inches in length. On each side of this 
strip tack down J inch. Now, leaving 
about 2 inches, start sewing on the border 
at one corner of the quilt, on the wrong 
side, with neat oversewing stitches. When 
you come to a corner you must mitre it. 
From the corner measure along your 
border twice the width of the border, i.e., 
64 



I 


1 t 


) 




) 


1 




IT 




This shows the right side of 
the square. The tacking 
threads are afterwards cut 
away and the paper pulled out. 



Making a Neat 
Corner. 



3 inches. Mark with a pin or thread. 
Now pleat your border strip so that the 
pin comes just on the corner. If you 
have done this quite neatly and evenly, 
your corner will be quite square. On 
the wrong side you will have a crease 
across the diagonal of the border. 
Stitch along this firmly with run and 
back-stitch. Then cut away just beyond 
the stitches, and oversew the raw edges 
to keep from fraying. When you come 
to the corner from which you started, 
you must join the two ends of the 

border, and this is done just the same as the other corners, by first 

creasing and then stitching on the diagonal. 

The Fancy Stitch. 

On the quilt in the picture a little fancy stitch has been worked 
in coloured " Star Sylko," and this is a great improvement. This is 
worked from left to right, with first a little horizontal stitch then a 
long slanting stitch, and below the slanting stitch another horizontal 




Here is a corner being mitred. 



Stitch. Bring your needle up from the 
few threads of material, bringing the 
needle out on a line with the first place at 
which you brought it up, but a little to the 
right of it. Bring it out under the stitch 
just made, and carry it down in a slanting 
direction and make another little horizontal 
stitch in the same way, this time, however, 
keeping your needle above the stitch. 
Then up again, and so on. The little 
pictures will make this stitch clear. When 
you have gone all round the border, you 
can take out all your tacking stitches and 
pull the paper away from the little squares. 



wronjj 



side. Take a 




This picture shows a corner 
mitred. 



65 



Lining the 
Quilt. 

Now all that remains to be done is to line your quilt, and this is 
done by taking a piece of white sateen yj inches wide by lof inches 
long. Turn in once and then tack J inch all round, and hem it neatly 
to the counterpane, as you were shown how to line the sachet 
on page 39. Be careful not to let the stitches come through to the 
right side of the quilt. If you want to make it extra warm you can 

^- put a layer of cotton wool in between 

the quilt and the lining. It is now 
quite ready for the spare bed. 

But perhaps some little mother 
says : "I haven't got any pretty 
pieces like those in the picture. 1 
have only got plain pink, blue and 
white." Well, you can arrange these 
to look pretty, even if they are only 
plain colours. Put a square of pink 
in the middle, have a white square 
above, below, and at each side. At 
the four corners, where the spotty 
bits are, have blue. The four out- 
side corners could be pink, and the top and bottom centre ones white. 
Then }ou could have a white border with blue stitching on it. This 
is only one suggestion for plain colours. You will soon think of 
plenty more. There is ever so much you can do with a few pieces and 
a little patience. 

Just Think ! 

Mary Mabel Melancholy 
Wouldn't even dress her dolly ! 
The only thing that she would do. 
Was sit and sing '* Bo-hoo ! Bo-hoo !" 

So the cold, uncomfy creature, 
Was confiscated by the teacher, 
And given to Alice Always-Good, 
Who made it such a pretty hood. 




How to work the taucy stitch round 
the border. 



66 



For the New Perambulator. 

There is one thing that dolly absolutely must have before you take 
her out to see her friends, and that is a new pram-cover. You had 
almost forgotten that, hadn't you? Just think how you would feel to 
have her dressed in her best for visiting, and sitting in that beautiful 
perambulator that Uncle gave you, and no nice cover to match 1 
Wouldn't you feel dreadful ? 

Here is a pram-cover that you can make. This has been worked 
on pale pink sateen, with shaded green for the leaves and stems, and 
dark crimson for the rosebuds. Use a shaded green No. 8 *' Star Sylko," 
crimson. No. 8, and plain green thread, No. 5, the same shade as the 
darkest part of the shaded thread, for the lines around. Perhaps 
these colours won't go quite nicely with dolly's pram and outdoor 
clothes. In that case you must decide on some other shades. 

This pram-cover measures 10 inches long by 7^ inches wide, then 
another 2 inches has been added to the length, and 2 inches to the 
width for the hem. You may find you need your cover larger or smaller 
than this one, but whatever size you have, don't forget to allow extra 
for a nice hem. Tack the hem down all round, but do not hem it: 
the stitches on the outside line keep 
it in place. 

Having tacked your hem, you 
have now to get the design trans- 
ferred to your pram -cover Just 
look at the outline design. This is 
just the size you will want. Now 
take a piece of tracing paper, and go 
carefully over the outline of the leaf 
wreath. Don't trouble about the bud 
at present. Next turn the paper over 
and run over- the back of the design 
with a fairly soft lead pencil — the 
outlines will show through thetrans- 




/i-i^ 



67 



Transferring 
the Design. 

parent paper. Turn it over again and lay it on your cover, taking care 
to get it nicely in the centre. Keep it firm and follow every line with a 
slightly harder pencil, marking it firmly and evenly. When you take 
your paper up you will find the leaves transferred to your pram-cover. 
The buds are transferred to each corner in the same way, putting them 
whichever way up you want them. 

All you have to do now is to work over the design in the outline 
stitch described on page 58. Work the leaves and stems in the shaded 




AJS OUTLINE DESIGN. ACTUAIj SIZE. 

68 



The Finished 
Pram Cover. 

green, the rosebuds in crimson, and the border lines in plain dark 
green. You can then take out the tacking threads. 

Dolly will be highly pleased to have such a nice cover to her 
perambulator. She does like to be stylish, doesn't she ? 



T 



4# 



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wmwBW^ 



'.V4\%V.V^V.\V-.V.\^\\V.V*\V\\>PJ| 




This pretty Bedspread is made of cream canvas 
embroidered in white and blue. 



70 



A Bedspread for Victoria. 

I wonder whether you have made the bedspread, shown on page 6i, 
with the doll's bed outfit. I daresay you have, and perhaps the patch- 
work quilt too. But of course you will not want all your doll-children's 
beds to look quite the same, so how about a bedspread with a fringe 
to it for Victoria's bed? Vou usually dress her in blue, don't you, to 
match her eyes, so you had better work the bedspread in blue. No, 
I know she does not go to sleep with her eyes open, but she has lovely 
fair hair, and pink roses in her cheeks; and a cream bedspread, worked 
in blue, is what she needs to set her off properly. 

The bedspread is worked in coarse cream Hardanger Canvas. The 
little detail of the stitch shows you the actual size of the canvas. If 
you use a finer canvas than this — as of course you can if vou like — 
then you will have to take your stitches over more threads to get your 
design the same size as the one shown here. 

The shade of blue that will suit Victoria beautifully is Xo. 709 
in Ardern's " Star Sylko," size 5, and you could use this for the work 
on your bedspread; and you will also want some white " Star Sylko," 
size 5, for the satin stitch. For sewing the fringe cream linen thread 
can be used. 

If you have not yet learnt to work the stitches used in making 
this bedspread, the best plan would be to take an odd piece of canvas 
and practise on that first. 

Satin Stitch. 

We will start with the white 
outlines of the border. This is 
worked in satin stitch — a very 
simple stitch, but it needs to be 
worked evenly, and the thread must 
not be pulled too tightly. Do not 
make a knot to start the work, 
leave a piece of thread at the back, 
and put th^ needle through this 
piece before you work the second 
stitch. Start by putting the needle 

71 



./^ <''\- 




Working the 
Fancy Pattern. 




This little square shows the 
stitches clearly. 



up through a hole of the canvas, miss 
I hole, put the needle into the next hole ; 
put the needle through the next hole on 
a line with the first, and go on working 
stitches like this in a straight line. 

If you do this in the right way, the 
stitches on the right side will be straight, 
and on the wrong side they will slant a 
little. 

The corners of this piece of work 
are done in an easy way, look carefully 
at the illustration, and I think you will 
see what to do. The 2 stitches on each side and the centre stitcb 
are all worked into the same hole on the inside of the corner. 

Outlines of Border. 

Now if you can do satin stitch, the bedspread can be started. 

Leave 12 holes around outside the satin stitch line. Work 50 
stitches across both ends, 84 stitches on each side — not counting the 
3 extra stitches at corners. Leave 14 holes on the side and work a 
line of stitches across to the other side, on both ends of work. Leave 
14 holes, counting towards the centre from side, and work a second 
line on each side between the ones worked at each end. 

To divide this into squares, leave 14 holes, and work rows of satin 
stitch between the 2 lines. 

Centre of Squares. 

Thread your needle with blue, and put it up through the corner 
hole, miss 2 holes, counting towards the centre, put the needle in the 
next hole, put the needle up through the third hole in a straight line 
from end of first stitch, then into same hole as the end of first stitch ; 
vi^ork another straight stitch on the other side. 

Work 3 more stitches like the first 3. Do 3 more corners in 
the same way, and join these corners with 4 stitches, these stitches 
make the square in the centre. 

72 



The Fringed 
Edges. 

The fringe looks difficult, but it is easier than it looks. 

Count 3 lines of thread from the satin stitch, this will leave 2 holes, 
draw out the next two lines of thread from across the canvas; this 
leaves a narrow piece of the canvas with threads one way only. 

On page 30 you will see how to do the Serpentine Hem-stitching. 
This is the stitch that is used for the edge of this bedspread, only that 
here you have no hem. You just do the work on both sides of the 
threads. Then pull away the threads at the edge, outside the second 
row of stitches, and you will get your fringe. 

The Two Dollies. 

I always dress the Princess Clare 

In white with pale blue bows ; 
She is a most well-mannered doll, 

And careful where she goes. 
She never soils her muslin dress, 
Or makes her slippers in a mess. 

But Lady Maude is always getting 

Some ugly-looking tear ; 
Or else her hat has had a wetting 

And isn't fit to wear ! 
And though I give her lovely sashes, 
She gets them spoilt with muddy splashes ! 

A doll who acts so carelessly 

Will have to wear a sack ! 
With just a piece of string to tie 

A sash behind her back ! 
You cannot let her wear pink silk 
When she upsets her bread and milk ! 

But Princess Clare goes out to tea, 

And often has a treat ; 
You know wherever she may be 

She will be clean and neat. 

A child like this is quite a treasure, 

To take her out is such a pleasure ! 

F. K. 
73 



For Dolly's Cottage Windoiv. 




ITTLE casement curtains are quite the best kind for the 
doll's cottage windows, and on this page is shown a very 
pretty one that you will probably like to make. This is 
of dark green sateen, and the work on it is done 
in light green and pink " Brighteye." It looks 
very nice in the picture, but it looks a great 
deal prettier when you can see the colours just 
as they are. And isn't the way the little circles 
are entwined just sweet ? Are you thinking 
that you couldn't manage it ? Well don't think 

it any more, because you can, if you just follow this little talk carefully. 
The stitch on this little curtain is called chain stitch. It is worked 

from right to left, or to be really nearer the mark -from top to bottom. 

To make it, bring your needle up from underneath, leaving a little end 

at the back. Hold the ^.^ 

thread down with the 

left thumb, and, putting 

the needle back where 

you brought it up, take 

up a few threads of the 

material with the needle. 

Pull the thread through. 

but not too tightly, repeat 

the stitch. One little 

picture shows you chain 

stitch being worked. 
For this curtain, a piece 

of sateen, 5 inches long 

by 4^ inches wide, is 

needed. Turn a narrow 

hem on all four sides, and 

tack it. The top edge 




THE LITTLE GREEN OtTBTAIN. 



74 



Making the Chains 
Stitch Rings. 



must be hemmed with tiny stitches, but the 
other three sides need not be hemmed, as 
the chain stitches will keep the hems down. 
This chain stitch can now be worked over 
the hems, on the right side. Now measure 
in 1 inch from the left side of chain stitch, 
and work another row in the same way. 
Between these two straight rows come the 
interwoven circles. To get these circles 
even, cut out a piece of cardboard the same 
size as the top of your thimble, and draw 
little circles round it on the sateen, allowing 
each circle to overlap the last one just a 
little bit. Now each little round touches the 




WOIIKING THE CHAIN- 
BTITCH. 




next one at two pomts. 
At one of these points it goes under, 
and at the other, over the next round. 
You will easily see what I mean by 
looking carefully at this little curtain. 
When the circles are all finished, they 
look like a chain, with one pink and 
one green link alternately. The only 
other thing to do is to sew the rings 
to the top of the curtain, for putting 
your curtain rod through. You will 
want one just like it for the other 
side of the window, and in making this, 
be sure and get your circles on the 
opposite side of the curtain, so as to 
make them a perfect pair. 



75 



f 




Carpets and Hearthrugs. 

The worst of having a house papered and parnted a fresh colour 
IS that it means getting all the furnishings to match, and carpets, 
hearthrugs, curtains, etc., are expensive items, if you have to buy 
them. But one must have a change in the doll's cottage sometimes, 

so suppose, to-day, you 
learn how to make a 
pretty carpet and hearth- 
rug for it. 

You can make your 
carpet and rug of whatever 
shades you like, and it 
would be best to choose 
colours that will go nicely 
with your wall paper. For 
instance, if the sitting- 
room of your doll's cot- 
tage is going to have a 
paper with pink roses and 
green leaves on the wall, 
you had better decide to 
have pink and green for 
your carpet and rug. If 
you have yellow walls, a 
carpet in a lovely shade of 
brown, and just a little yel- 
low in it would be delight- 
ful. Of course, if the 
doll's cottage has white 
'^'^2^-«c^f>%c4sr'^^^r^-^^^-^--''^-~:-'^- " or cream walls, you can 

THE IN-AND-OUT PATTERN choosc whatevcr colours 

you like for the floor. 
The In-and-Out Pattern. 

Let us make this little rug first, as this is a particularly easy pattern. 
Cream Congress Canvas has been used for this, and on page 78 
there is a picture of a little bit worked on canvas, that you may see 

76 




Commencing 
the Rug. 

which way the stitches go. This rug- measures 4 inches long- bv 2^ 
inches wide when finished, but it does not matter at all what size vou 
make it. This has been worked in Baldwin & Walker's Ladyship 3-plv 
Fing-ering, pink and green. This is a lovely soft wool to use. 

Commenceby 
turnmg the canvas m |jjm]P' "If.ij 

all round and tack it. 
Run the pink wool 
up a little way at the 
back of the canvas, 
leave a loop at the 
end, then start the 
first row between 2nd 
and 3rd threads from 
the left side, * pass 
the pink wool under 
I thread of canvas ; 
then over 6 threads 
and under 2 threads 
6 times, now over 6 
threads and under i 
at end of canvas, 
leave a loop at end, 
and start the next row- 
between the next two 
threads of canvas. * 

Work four more 
row^s from "^ to *. 

Qth Row. — Pass the 
pink wool under i 
thread, over 2 threads, 
under 2 threads, over 
6 threads 6 times ; 
now under 2 threads, 

over 2 threads, under the twisted akd dakned paitebn, 

77 





THE IN-AND-OUT PATTERN. 



How the Stitch 
is done. 

I thread. Work 4 more rows 
like this. Repeat from ist row 
to loth row until the work is the 
right width. 

Turn the canvas round and 
work the green wool across the 
canvas left between the pink 
wool. 

\st Row. — Start between the 
3rd and 4th threads from the top and the 6th and 7th threads from the 
side." Pass the green wool over 6 threads and under 4 threads twice, 
then o\er 6 threads, slip thread on to next hole at the back of the 
canvas. Work 2 more rows like this from *. 

4th Row. — Start the 4th row in the same hole as the ist pink stitch 
of group ends. Pass the green wool over 5 threads, then under 4 threads 
and over 6 threads three times, now over 6 threads, slip the thread at 
back to the next hole for next row. 

Work 2 more rows like this. Over- 
sew the 2 threads at the end of the rows 
with green wool, and twist the avooI over the 
single thread at the end of the fringe loops. 
If there is any difficulty in counting- 
the threads when working the green 
across, look at the back of the work. 

Repeat the 6 rows until all the 
canvas between the pink threads is 
covered. 
The Twisted and Darned Pattern. 

If you want to use the design for 
a carpet you can make it larger and 
square-shaped, or here is another design 
that is thicker, and will therefore be 
softer and nicer for the dolls' feet. 

This twisted pattern is also shown 
78 




THE TWISTED AND DARNED 
CARPET PATTERN. 



A Carpet 
Design. 

in the shape for a rug, which measures 5 inches long by 3 inches wide, 
but it can be made whatever size and shape you like. It has also been 
worked on Congress Canvas, with Baldwin & Walker's Ladyship 
3-ply Fingering. The colours used are light green for the twisted 
pattern, heliotrope for the star in the middle, and dark green for the 
darning. With this carpet a 
paper with pansies or violets 
would look very pretty. 

Here again little samples of SS5JJ5 
the stitches have been worked on 
canvas, that you may see clearly 
how they are done. 

The twisted pattern is 
worked in satin stitch over 4 



gmmi(itm0mm* mln^mtim*t,mitmiimmm»*mum 

• • M H « « • « 01 )S <« • « « «t « « « «t M M ^ 

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smmmm ujmtmtt* mm n*ntJBm* "*'*'*■ 
« « « « •^BWw « « ii c « 

■- ««ll»|a^^Pi *««•*« IK. • «#•» 



THE DETAIIi FOR WORKING THE 
DIAGONAL PATTERN. 



threads of canvas. 
You will see 
this stitch is de- 
scribed on page 71, 
and if you look at 
the pattern care- 
fully, you will get 
the twist over and 
under quite right. 
To make the cor- 
ners, work the 

A HEARTHRUG IN THE DIAGONAL DESIGN. StltchcS OVCr 3, 

then 2, and i 
thread, then over the middle, work the other side of corner over i, 2, 
and 3 threads, finish over 4 threads into the same hole as the last stitch,' 
over 4 threads on the other side of the corner. Look at the pattern on 
the canvas as you work this out, that will also show how many stitches 
to do, and the .way they are arranged. 

For the star in the centre, work from corner to corner twice, 
crossing the thread in the centre, then another stitch from the centre 




79 




A Little 
Hearthrug. 

hole on the top to the 
centre hole at opposite 
end, and another across 
the centre. 

The canvas between 
the twisted pattern is 
darned, that is, pass the 
thread over 2 threads 
of canvas and under 2 
thread s — this also is 
plainly shewn on the 
coarse canvas. 
Work blanket stitch into every hole around the edge. 
A square carpet of this design, with a small rug of 
the In-and-Out pattern, would look very well, but you 
would have to use the same colours for both, of course. 
The carpet could be fastened to the cottage floor with 
small drawing pins. 
The Diagonal Pattern. 

Here is still another kind of rug that you can make. It is also 
worked in Baldwin & Walker's 3-ply Ladyship Fingering on Congress 
Canvas, and the colours that have been used are pale blue, grey, and 
violet. A row is worked in each colour until the rug is large enough. 
This little hearthrug shown measures 4 inches by 2 inches, but you 
can make it as large as you like. 

The rug is worked in satin stitch for the ist row, the stitches are 
upright, over 4 threads, but each fresh stitch is started one thread lower, 
and of course finishes one thread lower. The next row is worked across, 
also over 4 threads, each stitch is started one thread farther back than 
the one before, and finished in the same hole as one of the stitches of 
the row before. 

If you look at the two little specimens that have been worked, I 
don't think you will have any trouble over this. You will notice that 
when you come to the edge, and want to finish off straight, you have 
to take your stitches over 4 threads, 3 threads, 2 threads, and then 
I thread. 

The edge of the rug is worked in blanket stitch. 

80 



The Ostrich and the Silkworm. 

T/iis Poem ivas written over a hundred years ago. 

One morning an ostrich, returning with glee 

From laying her eggs in the sand. 
Trotted under the boughs of a mulberry tree. 

Where a silkworm was weaving her band. 

*' Good day," said the worm, wishing much to be heard, 

" Any news in the papers, my dear ? " 
** Who's there — is it you, my good friend ? " said the bird ; 

" Why, no, not a line that I hear. 

*' Except — yes, I met with one comical thing 

(Design'd, I suppose, for a skit), 
An account of a feather I brush'd from my wing, 

Because it was ruffled and split. 

"And a cone of old silk you had dropt to the grounJ 

(Choice articles both, I confess). 
That one of those great human creatures had found. 

And made somehow into a dress ; 

"And when it was finish'd (you wouldn't suppose 

Such queer, unaccountable pride). 
The creature imagin'd because of its clothes 

'Twas better than any beside. 

" It walked to and fro for its fellows to see, 

And turn'd up its nose at the crowd, 
As if it forgot, little cousin, that we 

Had really best right to be proud." 

" He ! he ! why, you don't tell me so," said the worm ; 

"Ha! ha!" said the bird, "but I do; 
But I keep you from dinner ; good day to you, ma'am ; 

Mind— I don't tell the story for true." 

JANE TAYLOR. 



SI 




■^SL- 



About Dolly's 
Wardrobe. 



82 



Cutting Out your Doll's 
Clothes. 

Whatever garment it is you are wanting to make for dolly, you 
should first get a good pattern to cut it out from. 

You will find that your paper pattern only gives half of the garment, 
and by cutting each piece on double material you get the whole article. 
For instance, if you are cutting out a chemise for dolly, the pattern 
will give you half of the back and half of the front, and j ou will notice 
that the straight edge of each portion is marked " place to fold," which 
means that you must fold your material and place these edges along the 
fold, so that when you have cut out the two portions you will have the 
full front and the full back of the chemise. 

This rule of cutting on double material generally applies to all the 
portions of the pattern, but it is not always necessary to lay the edge 

against a fold, you only do this when your 
pattern is marked in this way. For in- 
stance, you will have the pattern for the 
whole sleeve when cutting out a frock, 
and by cutting it on double material you 

get a sleeve 
for each 
arm. 

Bef o re 
starting to 
cut out, 
clear your 
table of 
everything 
else, so that 
you have a 
nice flat 
s u rf ac e; 





83 



Cutting out 
Dolly's Clothes. 

and whatever you do don't try to cut out with a cloth on the table, or 
you will find you are constantly puining your pattern right through to 
the cloth, instead of to the material only. 

You will want a sharp pair of scissors to cut out well, and a good 
supply of pins. You will notice that one blade of your cutting-out 
scissors has a very sharp point, while the other blade has a rounded 
blunt end. To cut out successfully, you must always hold your scissors 
so that the blunt blade comes underneath your work. This prevents 
the sharp point of the scissors from running into the material, and 
making a hole where you don't want one ! 

Look at each portion of the pattern carefully, and place it on to 
the material according to what is marked on the paper pattern, then 
pin it down securely and cut round the portion close to the edge of 
the paper. 

Be sure you cut into the little notches that you will find cut in 
some of the edges, as these will help you in putting the pieces together. 
The edge that has one notch has to be joined to another edge with one 
notch, the edge with two notches to another edge with two notches, 
and so on. 

If the material has a pattern on it, be sure that you have it the 
right way up. For instance, if you are making dolly a frock out of a 
piece of material with birds on it, see that you arrange the pattern on 
the material so that the birds come with heads up. And also see that 
both the pieces of material, if you are cutting it double, are the same 
way up. Wouldn't it look queer if it turned out that one half of dolly's 
frock — when you had put it together— had birds standing on their feet, 
while the other half showed them standing on their heads ! 



84 




Making Dolly's Underwear. 

Good mothers always try to have their chil- 
dren dressed neatly and prettily, not only g-iving- 
them nice hats and dresses, but having all the 
other clothes to match. Of course, you want to 
be like a good mother to dolly, but perhaps you 
do not know how to make some of the things. 

Well, just look at this pretty set of under- 
wear, and read what is written about them, and 
see if you can make a set for dolly. 

The nightdress, chemise, flounced petticoat 
and the knickers are made of nainsook, and the 
plain petticoat of fine flannel. 

You have a little article on page 83 telling 
you how to cut out the garments from paper 
patterns. 

The Nightdress. 

We will commence with the little nightdress. 
The seams of this are joined with what is called 
a run-and-fell seam. Lay the two 
edges to be joined over one another, 
placing the edge of the upper por- 
tion just below the edge of the 
under one, and run them together, 
about an eighth of an inch in from 
the upper edge. When you have 
finished running the seam, you turn 
the edge of the under portion over 
the upper edge, and fold the seam 
down flat and hem it (or fell it) 
along. This is shown in your illus- 
tration of the seam. The side you 
have hemmed is the wrong side of 
the seam. 

When you have joined both the 

dolly'b nightdress. 
85 





Making Dolly's 
Underwear. 

seams, make a half -inch hem 
round the bottom of the nig-ht- 
dress, and make the very tiniest of 
hems round the neck and sleeve 
edges 

To trim your night-gown you 
will want a little lace edging with 
a beading at the top that you can 
thread a piece of narrow ribbon 
thFoagh. Hem the edging along 
the hems you have made at the 
neck and sleeve edges, then thread 




THE KNICKEKS. 




THE CHEMISE. 



in the ribbons with a bodkin, and 
draw them up to the size for dolly's 
neck and wrists. 

The Chemise. 

The chemise seams are joined 
in the same way as those of the 
night-gown, and narrow hems are 
placed round the neck and armhole 
edges, a little wider hem being put 
round the bottom of the chemise. 
Trim the neck and armholes with 
lace edging, as you did the night- 
gown, and draw up the neck only 
with ribbon. 

The White Petticoat. 

In making the little petticoat 
you have only one seam to join up 
at the centre back. You can use 
a French seam for this, and to make 
this you run the edges to be joined 
together on the right side, then turn 
vour work over and run the searrv 



86 




THlii FLOUNCED PETTICOAT. 



Dolly's 
Petticoats. 

down a second time. I 
think the little picture 
will explain this quite 
clearly to you. The 
seam is shown being 
run the second time, and 
you will see how this 
covers up the raw edges 
and leaves you with a 
neat little double seam 
sticking out on the 
wrong side of your 
work. This seam will be 
useful when you want to make dolly frocks, etc., or anything where 
you don't want to show any stitches on the right side of your work, 
and yet want it very neat on the wrong side. 

Don't join the back of the petticoat all the way up, but leave about 
two inches open at the top to form a placket. Make a narrow hem 
down each of the two edges of the opening on the wrong side, then place 
one hem over the other and backstitch them together across the bottom 
of the placket ; this will make It firm, so that you won't tear the seam 
when dressing dolly. When you want to backstitch, you start as you 
would for running, but 
only taking one stitch at 
a time, and for each 
stitch you put your 
needle back Into the end 
of the stitch you have 
just made, so that you 
have a row of even 
stitches without any 
spaces between. I think 
the Illustratipn will ex- 
plain this to you. If 
you are going to trim 




THE FLANNEL PETTXCOAX. 



87 



Some Stitches 
you must use. 



pvs^^ 



your petticoat with a little embroidery 
flounce, you must turn a hem round it the 
same width as your flounce, then whip the 
top of flounce to the top of the hem. How 
to do whipping was described on page 60. 
The top of the 



HKF.KINa-BONING 
IS DONE. 



petticoat IS 
gathered and placed into a band the size for 
dolly's waist ; putting gathers into a band 
was described on page 4. 

The petticoat is fastened with a button 

and buttonhole. If you do not yet know 

how to make a buttonhole, turn to page 6 for 

this. You have an illustration on this page 

showing how the but- 



"=^ 





A RUN AND FELLi SEAM AND A 
SAMPLE OF BACK-STITCHING. 



out 



HOW A. BUTTON IS 
SEWN ON. 

to the other end, put 
your needle through 
the button and brin 
your cotton 
between the button 
and the band, wind 
the cotton round 
four or five times, 
then put your needle 



ton is put on. Use a 
small white linen 
button, make a Httle 
bar of threads across the centre, just working over 
and over through the button and the band, then 
bring your needle out at the left end of the bar of 
threads and work buttonhole stitches closely 
together along the bar. When you have worked 




A FRENCH SEAM BEING MADE. 



88 



Working on 
FlanneK 

down through the band and fasten off your cotton on the wrong side. 

The Knickers. 

In joining up the Httle knickers you must first join each of the leg 
seams, then you join the two legs together from the front to the back, 
leaving a placket at the back as you did in making the petticoat. Finish 
the placket as before, then make a narrow hem round the top of the 
knickers, and thread a piece of tape through this to tie round dolly's waist. 

Gather the knee edges and place them into bands, and trim w^ith a 
narrow lace or embroidery edging. Perhaps you will like to feather- 
stitch the bands ; this stitch was described on page 7. 

The Flannel Petticoat. 

Now take the piece of flannel for your other petticoat. The seam of 
this has to be jomed in a different way to the other garments you have 
been making. You first run the two edges to be joined evenly together, 
then fold them over and herring-bone the raw edges down flat. Herring- 
bone stitch is worked from left to right ; you hold the edges of the seam 
down, and first take a little stitch below the edges, and then one just 
above, putting the stitches fairly close to each other so that the threads 
•cross evenly. If you don't feel quite sure of this stitch, take a small 
piece of flannel for practice and copy the little picture. Then, when you 
can work the stitch evenly, you can do your seam. 

Place the top of the petticoat into a band and finish with a button 
and buttonhole. You will see that little pleats are made instead of 
gathers to bring the petticoat to the size of the band ; the pleats set 
better in the flannel than gathers. 

Finish the bottom of the petticoat wnth a hem and tuck. How to 
make a tuck was described on page 18. 

The set of underwear illustrated was made for a doll 18 inches high, 
measuring from the top of the head to the sole of the foot. For this size 
set, about one yard of nainsook and a quarter of a yard of flannel will be 
sufficient. Two yards of lace edging, a yard of embroidery edging and 
two yards of bebe ribbon will also be needed. 



A Frock and Coat for Dolly. 



Making the Frock. 

If you haven't made dolly any 
dresses before, a simple yoked 
pattern like the one she has on 
in her picture will be an easy 
pattern to start with. 

You will want about a yard of 
some pretty soft material. A 
fancy delaine or creponne with a 
pretty floral design on it would 
look well, or you may prefer to 
have a plain 
material. A yard 
of lace and two 
yards of bebe ribbon 
will also be required 
if you are going to 
trim your frock 
exactly like the one 
in the picture. 

Carefully cut out 
all the pieces you . 

want to make the 
frock. Y o u w i 1 1 
find out how to do 
this on page 83. 
When you have all 
the pieces cut out in 
the material, take '^ 

the yoke portions of 
the pattern and cut 

them out again from y^^ can see here 



a little piece of nainsook or some- 
thing that will do to make a lining. 
Join the side seams of the skirt 
with French seams, then cut a 
placket two inches long in the 
centre of the back part of the 
skirt, and finish it as you were 
told how in the article on making 
dolly's underwear. 

Now take the dress yoke 
portions, and join the shoulder 
seam. Just an 
ordinary little run 
together seam on 
the wrong side will 
do for these, as you 
will remember we 
are going to line the 
yoke. 

Gather the top of 
the front of the skirt, 
and draw it up to the 
size of the lower edge 
of the front of the 
yoke. Place the 
edge of the yoke and 
the edge you have 
gathered together 
just as if you were 
going to make a 
^ , * , seam (be sure you 

howpretty'thefrockis. P^t the right sides. 
90 




The Yoke and 
Sleeves. 



of the material inside) and backstitch along firmly, f 

Turn in a quarter-inch single turning, from the 
neck down to the lower edge of each of the backs 
of the yoke, then gather the backs of the skirt and 
join them to the yoke as you did the front. 

Join the lining yoke portions together, turn your 
dress on the wrong side, and place the lining yoke over 
the dress yoke, so that the edges of the seams come 
inside. Turn the lower edges of the lining yoke in 
and hem them along to the back of the gathers, 
making it all neat inside, and in the same way turn in 
the straight edges of the backs of the lining to 
meet the single turnings you made on the dress 
yoke ; oversew these edges together. 

You will notice that the top edge of your sleeve 
portion is curved up much higher one side than the 
other ; the high side has to come on the shoulder, 
and the lower side underneath the arm. You will 
have to be careful in joining up the sleeves, that in 
the second sleeve the high side comes the opposite side of the sleeve 
to what it does in the first sleeve, so that you have one sleeve for the 
left and one for the right arm. 

Join up the sleeves with French seams. Take your little cuff band^ 
fold it in half and join up one side with a single seam, so that it is joined 
in a circle. Gather the bottom of the sleeve, until it is the same size as 
the cuff. Place the cuff over the bottom of the sleeve (with the right 
side of the material inside), and backstitch the gathered edge to the edge 
of the cuff. Fold the cuff piece in half over the gathers right rounds 
then turn your sleeve on the wrong side, and hem the other edge of the 
cuff to the back of the gathers. Make the other sleeve in the same way. 

To put the sleeves into the dress, first gather the tops, until tliey 
are the size of the armhole of the frock. 

91 




MAKING FRENCH 
KNOTS. 



For the Lower 
Hem. 

Place the short part of the sleeve over the skirt seam, so that it 
will come under dolly's arm, and place the sleeve seam to the seam 
joining the yoke to the skirt at the front. Make a seam of the armhole 
and the gathered edge of the sleeve. To neaten the armhole seams, 
bind them with narrow tape or ribbon. 

Now yoQ are ready to turn up the bottom of the frock. Measure 
dolly from her neck to where you want the bottom of the frock to come. 
Then measure the same distance down from the neck of the frock in 
front, and turn up a nice wide hem evenly all round. 

If dolly's frock is of plain material, instead of just hemming the 
hem, you might like to finish it with French knots along. You must 
work these with embrodiery thread, and you have a picture showing 
how the knots are made. 

Bring your needle up through the double hem on the right side, 
hold the thread down with the left hand thumb, and pick up a tiny stitch 
along the hem, just where the thread comes out; now, with the right hand, 
wind the thread round the needle (just as it is in the picture), pull your 
needle out, and you will find you have made a little twisted knot. Put 
your needle down through the hem again close to the knot, and bring it 
up a little further along the hem, ready for the next knot. Make your 
knots equal distances apart all round. This is a very good way of 
finishing any hem, where you do not want a row of hemming stitches 
showing on the right side. 

Bind the neck of the frock with a narrow strip of the material. 

Divide the lace into two equal lengths, then cut one length in half 
again. Pleat the longest piece into the neck of the dress, and one short 
piece into each cuff. Loop your ribbon up into a little rosette, leaving 
one or two long loops hanging, and place this on the left side of the yoke. 
Fasten the frock with buttons and buttonholes at the back. 

Making the Coat Dolly wears on page 82. 

Serge would be a good material to use. Half a yard would be 
sufficient to make it for an 1 8-inch doll, the size of the one in the picture. 

92 



About the 
Coat. 

Two yards of a tiny white braid were used to trim the coat. 

When you have carefully cut out your coat pattern, join up the 
under-arm and shoulder seams. To join coat seams you must just place 
the two edges to be joined together evenly, and backstitch them together 
on the wrong side. To neaten the seams inside the coat, open ihem out 
flat and bind each of the raw edges separately. To get them quite flat 
you will have to press them with a hot iron. 

The coat sleeve has two pieces, so you will have two seams to join 
for each sleeve ; join them just as you did the shoulder and under-arm 
seams, and be careful to get one sleeve the reverse way to the other one. 

Now take the front facings, lay them on to the right side of the fronts 
of the coat (you will see they are just the same shape as the fronts at the 
outer edges). Backstitch these pieces on to the fronts all round where 
the edges meet the coat edges, then turn the facings inside the coat. 
Bind the straight raw edges of the facings that come inside the coat. 
Turn back the top of each front to form a rever. 

Turn a single turning half an inch wide round the bottom of the 
coat, and backstitch along about a quarter of an inch in from the fold ; 
bind the raw edge of the turning inside the coat. Finish the wrist edges 
of the sleeves in the same way, and put them into the coat as you put in 
the dress sleeves ; they will need very little gathering. 

Cut a second collar out of a piece of soft sateen or lining, place the 
two pieces together and backstitch round three of the edges, leaving the 
curved neck edge open. Turn the collar inside out, pushing out the 
corners carefully. To join the collar to the coat, seam the neck of the 
coat to the neck edge of the lining of the collar, then turn the neck edge 
of the collar in over this seam and hem it along neatly. 

Put the braid round all the edges of the coat as shown. Using 
white cotton, hold the braid along the work, and sew it on with small 
running stitches along the centre of the braid. 

Make three buttonholes on the right front of the coat, and sew 
buttons on the left front to correspond. 



8iimu«aumn»««imii»»iMuuimcututiiMiuu«ntmnsnu«.muuut£«.« 





0mimuninMiinu\m\mvumn»nmniimmummui»i»»u)uiunnnnm« in 



This 19 the Peacock Cloth. One Peacock is standing on 
the top of a wall, while the other stmts about on the 
grass and shows off his splendid feathers. Isn't it pretty ? 



A Chapter about 
Pretty Oddments. 



94 



A Peacock Cloth. 




HE sight of these pretty peacocks makes you long 

\ to sit down and start working them, I am sure, 

and when worked on a square of white Har- 

danger canvas, they really make a most attractive 

little cloth or table-centre. 

The cloth in the picture was about 12 inches 
square when hemmed, but you can make it just 
what size suits you best; this will, of course, 
greatly depend on what you want to use it for. 
There is one thing, however, that you 

must be very careful about, and that is that your piece of material is 

perfectly square, and not wider one way than the other. Also be sure 

you allow about an extra 1^ inches all round to the size you want the 

cloth to be when 

finished, so that you 

can have a nice wide 

hem. 

You must first 

hemstitch your cloth 

all round, and you 

learnt all about how to 

do this on page 30. 
The peacocks are 

worked in cross-stitch 

with J. & J. Baldwin's 

Beehive Shetland 

Wool, in a crimson 

shade. If you are mak- 
ing your cloth out of 

Hardanger canvas, you 

will be able to work the 

r-n«QPQ V F>rv pn<jilv ^'°" ^^^ count the equares in this Peacock 

CiOSSeS very easily. with tail outspread. 

95 





























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Counting the 
Crosses. 

When workingon the Hardanger canvas, 
you just make your crosses over three 
threads of the canvas each way. 

I think you will find it quite easy 
to count the crosses from the diagrams 
given, and the best way to make sure 
of getting the peacocks nicely even in 
the corners, like they are in the picture, 
is to count the number of open squares, 
from the corners of the diagrams to 
the commencement of the designs, and 
allow three threads for each square on 
your canvas. For instance, taking the 
peacock on the left of your cloth, you 
will need to start on the sixteenth 
square up from the lower hemstitched 
border, and one square to the right of 
the side border. 

Remember, if you start the first 
cross right and work your crosses 
evenly, the design must come out even ; 
all you have to do is to see that you 
don't go over more than three threads 
of canvas for each cross. 

This design would look very well on a cushion. In that case, the 
cushion cover could be made of serge, or of crash, or of linen. Crash is 
very easy to work on, and washes well. If the material is so fine that it 
tries your eyes to count the threads, then it is easy to tack Penelope 
canvas over the material, and work the cross-stitches on this, drawing 
the canvas threads out when the work is finished. 




Here is the Peacock with his 
tail drooping. 



96 



Some Pretty Bead=work. 



Ther 



girls — or big ones eithei 




<3^J{EKX VEVKTIAX -WD SilALL 
CRYSTAL BEADS. 



are very few little 
who 

are not fond of beads. There is 

something so fascinating, isn't 

there, in seeing what pretty things 

we can make by threading them. 

And thei-e arc so many lovely 

ways in which you can use beads. 
You see the picture on page 

98, showing four little rows of 

beads. Well, each is a section of 

a pretty chain, either of which 

any little girl could make. The 

top one is made of tiny metal 

beads and shell beads. There are 12 tiny beads, then 3 shell beads, all 

the way along. 

The next chain shows beads of four different sizes, some dark and 

some light. This is part of a 
lovelx-, long muff chain. Just 
below is another chain, which 
is a very simpL* arrangement, 
being simply 12 metal beads, 
then 1 ordinary coral bead. 
The bottom chain of the little 
group is made of small, dull 
blue beads — 24 are threaded, 
then 2 little pink ones, next 1 
deep coloured pearl bead, 2 
pink, 24 blue, and so on. 

The picture above shows 
a pretty necklace made on 2 
threads You thread the tiny 




OF SMALL, PALE BLUE AND 
PEARL BEADS. 



97 



Working -with 
Two Threads. 

beads on single threads, then when you come to a larger bead, you 
put both threads through the same bead. The 5 very big beads are 
green Venetian beads, and look so pretty. 

Another necklace worked on 2 threads is also shown. The beads 
here are pale blue, with a small pearl here and there. Both threads 
are put through the same beads, until you come to the front part. 
There they are divided, and more put on the lower thread, to make the 
little loops, then both are threaded through the same bead again. This 
is done 7 times, to make 7 loops, then for the remainder all the beads 
are threaded on 2 threads. 

The upper picture on page 99 shows sections of 3 chains made of 
small beads. These are made on a bead loom. On these looms you 
can make lovely things, and the beads to use are Venetian Iridiscent, 
Cut Tosca, or No. 8 Cut Metal. The work is very easy, and is done 
as follows : — 

Always cut one more warp thread than the number of beads to be 
used in width, for instance, if the width of work is to be 6 bead wide 




FOUR 8IMPLK BEAD CHAINS. 

98 




CHAINS WADE ON A LOOM. 



With a Bead 
Loom. 

cut 7 threads. Also in making neck- 
laces cut the thread several inches 
longer, so as to prevent joining and 
to allow for the fastening on of the 
snap. 

After cutting threads, commence 
to tie all threads together at one end, 
fix this on the nail on the spool and 
then place each of the threads in 
rotation on the notches of bridge, 
carrying the threads to the opposite 
bridge. Then place the threads in 
same rotation on the second bridge ; 

now draw the threads tight and with the remains of length tie on round 

the end of loom and fix in and around the pegs. This is called the 

warp. You now get your thread for threading the beads, and tie the 

end at the first or left-hand warp, thread the same number of beads in 

the way you 

want the 

first r o w 

made, and 

push them 

up betw^een 

the warps, 

and repeat 

this again 

and again 

until the 

design is 

finished. 




■^xxxsxsxm^ 




A BEAD LOOM. 



99 



Pretty Things in Woolwork. 



Have you ever burnt your 
fing-er? If so, you know just what 
it is like, and you don't want 
me to tell you how it feels ! 
When you have once had a 
burn or a scald, you are very 
careful not to g"et another 
if you can help it, and 
you won't want any 
one else to burn 
themselves, I 
know. 

H a s 
Grandmamma 
a kettle holder? 
She certainly ought 
to have one, because it 
is really a 
nasty thing- to 
pick up a hot kettle without a 
holder. You just want to drop it 
at once ! Suppose you start right 
away to make a kettle holder. 
I mean a really pretty one, of 
course, that will be delightful to 
look at, as well as useful. 

Here is a lovely chance for 
you to do some Berlin Wool- 
work. This is done on Penelope 
Canvas. You have already learnt 
to work cross-stitch designs on 
Penelope Canvas, haven't you? 




Here is a 

pi-etty 

Kettle Holder 



SO you have not so very much 
that is fresh to learn here. 
When you did the work before, 
however, you pulled the 
threads away afterwards, but 
here you do not pull any 
away, but you cover the 
whole of the canvas 
square with some 
pretty pattern. It 
may be alter- 
nate rows 
of two col- 
ours, or it 
may be a little 
square pattern, or it 
can be the " upstairs 
and down- 
stairs " p a t- 
tern that you see in the kettle 
holder on this page. 

The easiest kind of kettle 
holder to start with would be 
one like the mat on page 103 
— in green and purple — working 
a row of green crosses, and then 
a row of purple crosses. When 
you are working several crosses 
in a row, you do not finish each 
cross before going on to the 
next. \'ou make the halves of 
the crosses all one way, and then 



Tt hangs up 
by the loop 
at the top 



100 



A Kettle Holder 
in Tw^o Colours. 



i^'-o back and cross them all. You will 
see what I mean by the top illustra- 
tion in the picture on this page, showing 
the stitches. 

You will want some Penelope 
Canvas, and some purple and some 
green Berlin wool — J. and J. Bald- 
win's English-made Berlin w^ool is the 
kind to get, as we all like to buy 
things that are made in England, 
don't we? You also need a piece of 
thick serge or cloth to line the kettle 
holder, and a pretty cord to finish 
the edge. 

To start the kettle holder, take 
a piece of can\as, about 7 inches each 
way. Before you commence the pat- 
tern, thread your needle with wool, 
and take over-and-over stitches all 
round the edge to keep the canvas 
from fraying out while you are doing 
the pretty work. 

Now, starting half an inch in, 
work the cross-stitch, first doing a 
row of purple and then a row of 
green, leaving half an inch all round 
the edge. This will give you a 
worked square, 6 inches by 6 inches. 

Having finished the cross-stitch, 
turn in the edge all round as far as 
the work, and tack it. Take your piece 
of cloth, turn in and tack the edge of 



101 




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HOW THE STITCHES ARE DONE. 



I 



Various Patterns for 
Kettle Holders. 

that all round to the same size as the kettle holder. Place them 
together with the wrong sides facing, and hem the lining to the holder, 
not letting the stitches show through on the right side. 

The only thing to be done now is to sew the cord to the edge. 

This finishes the kettle holder very prettily, and at one corner it can 

be twisted up to make a loop to hang the holder up by, as you see in 

,- the picture on page loo. 

V Do you see the little 

\ piece worked in squares at 

the bottom of the picture on 
page loi. This is a lovely 
design for a kettle holder. 
You see nine crosses are 
worked in light wool and nine 
in dark wool alternately. 

The " upstairs and 
downstairs " pattern is just 
a little bit more difficult, 
but even this only requires 
careful counting. You 
start in the top left-hand 
corner, and work six 
crosses in a row. Then 
take four downwards, 
then four more in a row 
with the last one down, 
then four more down, 
and so on. When you 
have worked from one 
corner to the other in 
this way, you start fill- 
ing in the space at each 






BERLIN WOOJi WORK ON A BAG. 



102 



A Very Useful 
Mat. 




side of that 
f 1 i a g o n a 1 
line, work- 
i n g two 
rows in 
each colour. 
Light and 
dark green 
would look 
very pretty 
for this. 
The kettle 
holder 
worked in 
this design 
is shown 
hanging 
cornerwise, 
but of 
course it 
has to be 
worked 
straight, as in third specimen in the picture on page toi. 

There is another thing that Grandma would find very useful, and 
that is a mat to stand on the table for her hot w^ater-jug. You 
can make this in the same way as the kettle holder, with just two- 
little differences. When the work on the front is finished, turn the 
canvas on the wrong side over a piece of cardboard before tacking it. 
Then Une it with a strong piece of sateen. The cardboard keeps it 
firm, and it will then be quite a useful mat to stand the jug on. Then 
you do not niake a loop to hang it up, as you did the kettle holder, 
but you simply finish the edge with a straight piece of cord. 



A MAT Foil A HOT WATER JUG- 



103 



A Bag for 
Knitting. 

If you have a thicker wool, or use the wool doubled, you can work 
the design in half crosses only, that is to say, just take a half stitch 
and do not cross it. You will see what I mean by the second little 
specimen in the picture on page lor. 

Does Grandma knit? If she does she will need a strong bag to 
keep her work in, as steel knitting needles have an aggravating way 
of poking their heads through the corners of a bag that is not - ery 
strong. You will see how to make a bag on page ii, and a way to 
make it extra strong is to w^ork a strip of Berlin wool-work and sew 
it to the bottom of the bag, so that when you join up the seams of the 
bag, you sew in the strip of wool-work at the same time. Isn't that 
a sweet bag on page 102. This is made of pretty grey material, and 
the work at the bottom is done in several lovely colours, purple, green, 
black, yellow and white, and you would hardly believe how lovely the)- 
all look blended together. The ribbons to draw up the bag, and the 
feather-stitching, are of a beautiful purple colour. 

Preparing for Visitors. 

We've been so busy all this week, 

Spring-cleaning Dolly's rooms. 
We've shaken carpets, scrubbed the floors. 
We've cleaned the walls, and rubbed the doors, 

With dusters, pails, and brooms. 

We've made new curtains and new mats, 

A carpet for her feet, 
A bedspread fit for any queen, 
A hearthrug worked in pink and green — 

It all looks very sweet. 

You see, when Cousin Mabel comes 

And brings her doll, Rose Gerty, 
It would be shocking if she found 
A speck of dust upon the ground, 

Or thought our doll's house dirty ! 

F. K. 

104 



A Butterfly Pincushion. 



This cushion 
case can be made of 
white Hardanger 
Canvas and em- 
broidered with J.&J. 
Baldwin's Beehive 
Shetland Wool in a 
blue shade, but you 
must first make a 
little calico case and stuff it with 
bran, then the embroidered case 
can be taken off and cleaned 
when it gets dirty. 
Cut two 









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THE BUTTKKFLY DKSIGN FOR 
COUNTING THE CROSSES. 



made inside out, and 
stuff it with bran. 
When you have put 
in as much bran as 
you can possibly 
manage to squeeze 
into the bag. turn 
the edges of the 
open side in and 
oversew them together. 

Now cut two squares of 

canvas the same size as you cut 

the two calico squares, for the 

case. 



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The Cord gives the Pincushion a pretty finish. 
105 


crosses 8 



Putting the Cover 
on the Cushion. 



threads in from the edge of the square, going over three threads of canvas 
for each cross and leaving three threads between each. Then put the 
second row of crosses above the open spaces of the first row A cross is 
then added at each corner three 
threads in from the border. 

To get the butterfly right in the 
centre of the square, count the 
crosses on the design and place the 
centre cross of the butterfly even 
with the centre cross of the border 
each way. Now sew your two 
squares of canvas together along 
three of the edges on the wrong side, 
taking a seam of four threads of 
canvas. Turn on to the right side, 
pull the case over the stuffed cush- 
ion, and oversew the edges of the fourth side together. 

Finish the cushion with blue cord, making a loop at each corner ; 
the cord shou'd be hemmed on along the seam all round. The oversewn 
seam can be opened a little way and the ends of the cord tucked in and 
sewn securely to make a neat finish. Three-quarters of a yard of cord 
will be sufficient to go round the cushion. 

This little butterfly would also look very pretty on a cushion for 
Dolly's chair or couch, and you could make the cushion in exactly ihe 
same way as the pincushion, only you would not need to stuff it so full, 
but leave it loose and soft for Dolly's head. 

Or, if you can knit, you could knit her a woollen bedspread, using 
J. & J. Baldwin's q-ply Beehive Fingering. Knit it in plain garter 
stitch, the length and width you require. Then work a cross-stitch 
border all round, and the butterfly in the centre. It is easy to work 
cross-stitch on plain knitting. 




106 



The Farmyard Curtain. 

Isn't this a pretty curtain ? It has quite a farmyard of animals on 
it. First, there is the stately cock ; then two rabbits, one running along 
and one sitting down ; and then quite a group of ducks and ducklings. 
Perhaps if you were to ask mother, she would let you make some like 
it for your own bedroom. 

Cream Congress canvas was used to make the curtain, and it was 
lined with sateen of the same shade. The animals and border are 
worked in green " Star Sylko " thread. No. 5, Shade 754. The curtain 
in the picture is about 18 inches wide and 21 inches deep, but you 
would, of course, make it the right size for your own window. 



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First cut your 
canvas to the size 
required, allowing 
about 6 threads of 
canvas extra all 
r o u n d for turn- 
ings. Turn in a 
single turning of 
6 threads all round 
and tack secureh'. 







The curtain looks like this when it hangs at the window. 

107 



Working the Border 

Now look care- 
fully at the border 
and see how this is 
done. You have an 
illustration showing 
how to malie the 
various stitches 
used. You first 
work slanting up- 
and-down stitches 
all along the side 



Working the 
Edge. 

edges and acros > thj bottom of the curtain, going over 4 threads of 
canvas. 

Commencing from the top of the right side edge of the curtain, 
count 4 threads from the top edge, and put your needle up through the 
hole right on the edge ; go over 4 threads to the right and 4 threads up, 
put your needle in and pick up 8 threads ; make a slanting stitch back 
again down to the edge of the canvas, and put your needle into the hole 
you first brought it out of, pick up 8 threads along the edge, and repeat 
this up and down all the way round tiiree sides of the curtain. 

1 think the little picture will best show you how this is done ; you 
will see that two slanting stitches meet at the corner. In picking up 
the lower threads only take up the single canvas, so that no stitches 
will be shown at the edge on the other sidj. 

Now to complete the edge, buttonhole stitches are worked around. 




A CORNEK SHOWING THE BORDER. 

108 • 



The Stars for 
the Border. 



Directions for making buttonhole stitch are 
given on page 6. One stitch is placed at 
each point of the slanting stitches, putting 
your needle down through the fold of the 
edge of the curtain. How this should look 
can be seen in the second specimen in the 
illustration of the stitches. You will notice 
that three stitches are made into the one 
hole at the corner. 

You have now to work the rows of stars 
around to finish the border. These are 
worked as shown in the third specimen in 
your illustration of stitches. All the stitches 
of the star start from the centre hole, the 
four long stitches being worked over four 
threads of the canvas, and the four short 
stitches over 2 ; one thread of canvas is left 
between each star. There should also be 
four threads left between the points of the 
first row of stars and the stitches round 
the edge of the curtain. One row of stars 
is worked all round, a second row and a row 
of half stars being added across the bottom. 

The Animals. 

The animals are worked in cross-stitch, 
going over 2 threads of canvas for each cross. 
If you are not quite sure how to work cross- 
stitch, you can find out by looking at page 26 








SHOWING SOME OF THE 

STITCHES USED ON 

THE CURTAIN. 



You will be able to 
count the crosses from the diagrams given. O course, if your curtain 
is to be much larger than this one, you will have to leave more space 
between each animal. 

Also, you might like to make your curtain of some other material 

109 



Diagrams for Counting 
the Crosses. 








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instead of the canvas, 
and if you are using a 
plain material, without 
even threads to count, you can first tack Penelope canvas where you 
want your animals, and work over this, pulling the threads of canvas 
away after, as you see explained on page 27. For instance, the curtain 
would look quite nice made of unbleached calico in this way. You have 
a set of pictures on page 111, showing the animals worked over Penelope 

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the crosses for the 

animals. 



110 



The Animala 
on Canvas. 



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Finishing the 
Curtain. 

Lining the Curtain. 

You now cut out a piece 
of sateen exactly the same size 
as you cut the canvas, turn in 
a narrow single turning, and 
tack the sateen to the wrong 
side of the curtain. The stitch 
used for sewing the Hning to 

the curtain is shown at the 

bottom of your illustration of 
stitches. In working this, you 
hold a strand of your embroi 
dery thread along just in from 
the edge of your work, and 
sew over this, with small slan- 
ting stitches, putting your 
needle in just above the line of 
thread, and bringing it out just underneath. The coloured thread is 
used for this; a white thread is used in the specimen, just to show you 
how^ the stitches should look. 

When you are doing this part of the work, be careful that you do 
not take your stitches through to the right side of the curtain, but only 
pick up the turned-in edge of the canvas with the sateen. 

Sew 7 bone curtain rings to the top of curtain at even distances 
apart, and the curtain is complete. 

You w'lU need two curtains, or even three, if your window is a very 
wide one. But each curtain is made in exactly the same way. And 
when they are finished, }ou will be very proud of your needle-work I am 
sure. And all your friends will be able to see it, without any 
showing, every time they come into your room. 

































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112 



Index. 



PAGE 

Alphabet, A Cross-stitch 52, 53 

Amiable Pussy Cats, The ... 47 

Apron, A Handy Work ... 3 

Backstitching- ... ... ... 88 

Bag-, The Orchid Flower 

Stocking- ... ... ... 50 

Bag-, A Knitting- 102 

Bag, The Lambkin ... ... 11 

Bag-, Making- a Macrame ... 43 

Band, Putting- Gathers into a 4 

Bead Work 97 

Bed, For Dolly's 55 

Bedspread for Victoria, A ... 71 

Berlin Wool W'ork 100 

Binding Seams 58 

Blanket Stitch 58 

Butterfly Pincushion, A ... 105 

Buttonhole, Making- a ... 6 

Button, How to Sew on a ... 88 

Carpets and Hearthrugs ... 76 

Cats on a Chair Back ... 29 

Cats, The Amiable Pussy ... 47 

Cloth, A Peacock 95 

Chain Stitch ... ... ... 75 

Chair Back, Cats on a ... 29 
Cosy Cover, Making: a ■•• M 
Cottag-e Window, For Dolly's 74 
Covering- Squares for Patch- 
work ... ... ... 64 

Cross-stitch Alphabet, A 52, 53 
Cross-stitch over Penelope 

Canvas, How to W^ork ... 26 
Cross-stitch . on Hardang-er 

Canvas, How to W'ork ... 95 

Cross-stitch, A Feeder in ... 25 



113 



PAGE 

Cross-stitch Desig-ns 12, 16, 27, 

32, 48, 51, 05, 105, no 

Curtain, The Farmyard ... 107 

Cutting- Out your Doll's Clothes 83 

Doll's Clothes, Cutting- Out your 83 
Dolly, A Frock and Coat for 90 
Dolly's Underwear, Making- ... 85 
Double Featherstitching: ... 23 
Draw-string-s in a Bag-, Thread- 
ing" 13 

Dressmaking: ... ... ... 46 

Easy-to-Make Pinafore, An ... 17 

Farmyard Curtain, The ... 107 

Featherstitching- ... ... 5 

Featherstitching-, Double ... 23 

Feeder in Cross-stitch, A ... 25 

For Dolly's Bed 55 

For Dolly's Cottage Window... 74 

For the New Perambulator ... 67 

For Ribbons and Bows ... 8 

French Knots ... ... ... 91 

French Seam, A 88 

Frock and Coat for Dolly, A 90 

Gathering ... ... ... 4 

Gathers into a Band, Putting 4 

Handkerchief Sachet, A Har- 

danger 34 

Handy Work Apron, A ... 3 

Hardanger Handkerchief 

Sachet, A 34 

Hardanger Corners ... ... 41 

Hairpin Work 44 



Index. 

Hearthrug-s, Carpets and 
Hemmingr 
Hemstitchingf 
Herringr-boning- 
Housewife, A Red Satin 

Invalid, The 



Just Think 

Kettle Holder, A 
Knitting- Bag-, A 

Ladder Hemstitching- 
Lambkin Bag-, The 



Macrame Bag-, Making- a 
Mattress, Makings a Doll's 
Mat for a Hot-water Jug-, A 
Mitre a Corner, How to 
Mitring- a Corner for Hem- 
stitching- 



PAGE 
76 
18 
30 



14 
66 

TOO 
T02 

30 
1 I 

43 

55 
103 

65 
31 



Night-dress Pocket, The Swal- 
low ... ... ... 15 

Nig-ht-dress Case, Making- a 

Doll's 61 

Orchid Flower Bag-, The ... 50 

Ostrich and the Silkworm, The 81 

Outline Stitch, An 58 

Oversewing: ... ... ... 28 

Pale Blue and Heliotrope ... 43 

Patchwork Quilt, A 63 

Peacock Cloth, A 95 

Perambulator, For the New ... 67 

Pillow, Making a Doll's ... 59 

Pinafore, An Easy-to-make ... 17 



Pincushion, A Butterfly 
Pink Sunbonnet, The 
Pleats, Making ... 
Poems 10, 14, 46, 49, ']2i, 81 
Preparing- for Visitors 
Pretty Thing's in Woolwork .. 
Putting- Gathers into a Band.. 
Putting Pleats into a Band .. 

Quilt, A Patchwork 

Red Satin Housewife, A 
Ribbons and Bows, For 
Run and Fell Seam, A 

Running 

Rug--making- 

Satin Stitch 

Serpentine Hemstitching- 

Staple Work 

Stocking Bag, A 

Stroking- 

Such an Advantage 
Sunbonnet, The Pink ... 
Swallow Nig-htdress Pocket, 
The 

Things in Woolwork ... 
Threading- Draw-string-s in ; 

Bagr 

Tucks 

Two Dollies, The 

Underwear, Making Dolly's .. 

What a Contrast 

Whipping... 

Woolwork, Pretty Thing-s in .. 
Work Apron, A Handy 



PAGE 

105 
20 
18 
104 
104 
100 

5 
18 



Printed for the Proprietors of " Thk Girl's Own Paper & Wojian's Magazine, 
by Curtis & Beamish, Ltd., Coventry, England. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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